#11
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I have the pump signal wire connected directly to the arduino output and the negative tied into the supply output negative.
I do also have a resistor and cap on the signal line to change the PWM to analog. The speedwave pump doesnt really need the resistor/cap but my jebao wp pump does. |
#12
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I run a Speedwave 2640 as my return pump. Been using it for almost a year now. But I'm not using the stock power supply. I'm using a 19V laptop PS with it.
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#13
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Quote:
Its easier to run in the "green" than it is to constantly ride the "yellow stripe"! That's why everything I design / work on is a complete overkill! Its not hard to put in a bit extra and have 4 channels capable of 250W in the design and set it up as such that you may never need it. And believe it or not 4 drives isnt much when you look at 1 Main Circulation pump, 1 Skimmer pump and 2 closed loop / wavemakers. In regards to power supplies... Sounds like they are pushing them right to the ragged edge. RMS figures are always a lot more different than the PEAK figures. 24V 400W off the shelf industrial supply maybe better suited then the "bricks" the pumps ship with as well as reduce clutter overall when all your pumps are controlled from one unit! Last edited by _Adrian_; 04-07-2015 at 08:50 PM. |
#14
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Quote:
After a lot of whining and complaining RLSS has sent me new controllers for ALL my pumps and they seem to be much better at dissipating heat. For giggles, I mounted one of the old controllers to the bottom of a floor joist so that the fan was open to the air (it's running my external skimmer) and it's been humming along for almost a year now with no issues OTHER than a really noisy bearing on that little fan. Here's the difference between the old and new controllers: |
#15
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Hey! I never "LEFT" the hobby, just doing fresh water now. Which is still listed as part of Canreef if I'm not mistaken. |
#16
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It would be great if a well established company like Iwaki or Panworld offered something suited to our application. I know Panworld already makes a number of DC pumps, but they are on the small side & not biased for a lot of head pressure. Or perhaps an innovator like EcoTech could come up with something? After all, they're really the first company to offer decent DC power heads. Wouldn't be cheap, but you could be assured that some proper R&D goes into the product.
EDIT: Ok, maybe I need to retract my statement about Panworld only making small DC pumps, it's been a while since I did a search on the product! http://www.panworldpump.com/products_03.php?cs=3&ss=18
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82206 Last edited by mike31154; 04-08-2015 at 03:33 PM. |
#17
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Ive got 2 tanks running, one is using an Eheim 1262 and the other a QuietOne 5000.
The Eheim is rock solid and simply amazing!! The QuietOne 5000 is the loudest pump I have ever head - Ironic with the name and all but it does work... I am hunting for a replacement Eheim so that I dont have any crazzy surprises... Eheim... |
#18
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This is what I don't get about "engineers"...
Why the HELL would you mount a heatsink at the back of the unit where there is little to NO airflow when mounted ??? The current plan for mine will be simple... An SPI controlled 6CH LED driver ( PWM ) that in turn will drive 4x 25A SSR's ( Solid State Relays ) This way interfacing to a Arduino or any other micro controller will be as simple as a few lines of code |