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#1
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I do have some form of pods living between the glass and my algae magnet (I assume they must be living in the rock as well), and I get those really tiny little starfish looking white bugs on the glass (I forget what they're called!). I also have tiny spots where coraline started to take hold on the rocks and back glass, but I'm pretty sure the reason it stopped growing was because of the low alkalinity. Anyway, there is some life. Not as much as I would like but its there.
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~ Jon "Resolved, that I will live so as I shall wish I had done when I come to die." (Jonathan Edwards, 1722) |
#2
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I did finish the drywall and paint in the basement (where my tank is located)this summer, but I made sure to seal off the room my tank was in when I sanded it. I also painted the concrete floors to keep the dust down. All that was done before my 100% water change, so I would think that if that was the cause then the water change should have taken care of it... Quote:
Maybe this is the simplest option? Would it matter what size I used? I was leaning toward a 9W Green Killing Machine because I can get one shipped for about $75... and I don't want to fork out hundreds for something I will only use once and a while. Seems like a better idea then hydrogen peroxide dosing... which is intriguing BUT doesn't seem like its work the risk. Pretty sure my wife wouldn't be too happy if I told her I wanted to order another $200 worth of coral frags because I just killed all mine ![]()
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~ Jon "Resolved, that I will live so as I shall wish I had done when I come to die." (Jonathan Edwards, 1722) |
#3
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![]() Sorry to hijack your thread by the way Jon. I was just very happy to see this thread since I seem to be going through an identical issue at the moment.
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Jason |
#4
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I did come across a random reference on RC about a guy having cloudy water that only went away when he changed his RO membrane... he didn't go into any detail though. Mine is four years old, but I had it in storage for two of those years (it didn't dry out). It is still reading 0 TDS though so it should still be good...? Now that I think about it, it does spike to 40ppm for the first 30 seconds or so before falling to 0. Would that be an issue?
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~ Jon "Resolved, that I will live so as I shall wish I had done when I come to die." (Jonathan Edwards, 1722) |
#5
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Jason Last edited by Jaws; 01-20-2015 at 01:40 AM. |
#6
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![]() Going through the same thing with my new 400G tank. Cloudy white and all the fish are suffering with pretty bad signs of what appears to be either ich or stress. Shouldn't be ich considering they were all in quarantine and treated with chloroquine phosphate for 3 months prior. Thanks for the tip about the UV. Hopefully that starts bringing them around. I also have about 50 pounds of live rock in a dark tank that I was hoping would help counter balance all the previous dry rock. All my dry rock was acid bathed before though so not sure why it's making the water cloudy after cycling for over two months.
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Jason |
#7
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Are either of you doing any home renos with gyproc/drywall at all?
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www.oceanfreshaquarium.com/foz-down.html - Foz Down - an easy way to eliminate algae outbreaks caused by Phosphate and bring back the fun of reef keeping. |
#8
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![]() Just borrow or find a used UV. It really is the best solution here.
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This and that. |
#9
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![]() I have a large UV too so hopefully I can get that up and running asap.
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Jason |
#10
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![]() Not me. I'd be surprised if there wasn't enough oxygen though. My tank has a coast to coast overflow plus 3 Maxspect Gyres, 2 MP40 Vortechs and 4 Tunze 6105s so there's plenty of surface agitation too. Or does that not matter in this case?
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Jason |