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#1
01-24-2014, 01:19 PM
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JBJ has yet to fail on me, and you get to hook up whatever pump you want to it. Don't have to be stuck with the crappy and loud tunze pumps. Only drawback to the JBJ is the mechanical float valves. They can get stuck if they are clogged with something, so regular maintenance is a must. I surrounded mine with a peice of pvc to add some extra safety (snails and such that might crawl on it).
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 They call it addiction for a reason... 
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#2
01-24-2014, 01:51 PM
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ive been using a pair of float valves from autotopoff.com and an aqualifter for 3 years now. it has worked very well, just make sure to put a siphon break in the line if the top of the waater level in the ato tank is ever higher than the water level in your sump.
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the lurker formerly known as THENEWGUY 75g reef w/ 20g sump, 100lbs LR, Tunze 9006 skimmer, 3 part dosing, DIY 66 LED fixture, Reefleeper Lite LED build here: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/29498...h-mount-build/
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#3
01-24-2014, 02:23 PM
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#4
01-24-2014, 03:00 PM
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Well - not completely fail safe. Get a small snail trapped under your float valve and it can stop your RO unit from turning off. Risk of that is low however.
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I'm out. 
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#5
01-24-2014, 03:15 PM
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I use an air pump on a timer to pressurize a 7 gallon glass wine carboy. This pushes water through a mechanical float valve to keep my display topped up for about a week. I like simple with a minimum of electrics if at all possible. Fewer failure points. If I had a sump, I'd elevate the top off container & use gravity (eliminating the air pump) to trickle water through the float valve. I've used this set up for a good 5 years now with no issues. Periodically dose alk, calcium, mag through the top off & never had the mechanical valve clog. Just need to ensure you mix whatever you're dosing real well & not overdo it. No a big deal to check the opening during a water change to ensure it's clear. I've shortened the valve by cutting off two of the float chambers to reduce the footprint in the display & it still works great.
Great bang for buck since I had most of the components kicking around the house already. Solid rubber stopper drilled with two holes to accommodate rigid air tubes. Short one for air in, long one to the bottom to transport water to float valve.  Photo of the valve when it was still full length. I've shortened it by cutting off two sections at the end. 
__________________
Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build  http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82206
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#6
01-24-2014, 06:19 PM
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Smart ATO
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I guess time will tell if it's trouble-free over the long run. So far it's great!
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#7
01-24-2014, 01:49 PM
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__________________
 My 70 Gallon build: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=66478 My Mandarin Paradise: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72762 I wonder... does anyone care enough to read signatures if you make them really small? I would not. I would probably moan and complain, read three words and swear once or twice. But since you made it this far, please rate my builds. 
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#8
01-25-2014, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
You can run it with just 1
__________________
Guide to building super awesome rock structures / my tank journal http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=116410
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#9
01-25-2014, 05:27 PM
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#10
01-25-2014, 06:51 PM
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If you do the high low setup it will make your water level vary IMO the best way to set it up is to do the setting with the sensor in your reservoir
__________________
Guide to building super awesome rock structures / my tank journal http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=116410
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