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![]() Just curious, are DIY LED fixtures, and other DIY devices involving electricity (eg. ATO switches) illegal, and no insurance coverage if there is a fire?
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#2
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![]() Quote:
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Brad |
#3
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![]() I think the moral of this story is that if you're going to burn down your house with non approved electrical hardware, then just make sure that the equipment in question has completely disintegrated beyond all recognition. Problem solved. Thank me later.
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![]() Can you here the crickets?? Good question, let the panic ensue.
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#5
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![]() I know for certain that any electrical project I undertake is much more likely to light my house on fire than any factory produced equipment. So far Brad's projects, 2 fires, counterfeit sticker items, 0.
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Brad |
#6
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![]() And does this mean I should disconnect my DIY water sensor (connected to my Apex IO Breakout Box) that shuts down my pumps if I have a water leak or spill?
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. Last edited by Reef Pilot; 11-05-2013 at 03:42 PM. |
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![]() Quote:
Insurance will still cover you, they cover if your cigarette burns your house down.
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-My 330g build thread |
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![]() ok I did a bunch of reading and in some cases if there is a problem caused by a non-CSA appliance then your insurance could be void, but doesn't seem to be much of that happening. one other interesting thing I did find was
"Provincial laws in Canada stipulate that electrical appliances connected to a public power source (commercial power source) must conform to CSA Standards." so if they wanted to the goverment could come after you under this clause. and I did read in a bunch of places (ontario being one) that it is ileagal for a business to import and sell non csa equipment. probably a ton of exemptions for that one though, mind you I remember a while ago in victoria having to buy heaters cash only and they wern't on display as they were not "CSA" aproved. so aparently one vendor new they were not suposed to be selling them and didn't want to be caught, and for the record they were awsome heaters ![]() Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
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![]() I figure if a fire starts, just point the pump in that direction, the flow will extinguish it for sure!!
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Brad |
#10
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![]() Interesting read, this thread. Seems we get a nice & fuzzy when we see the required label & code on something from a reputable company, but sound the alarm bells if we're not quite sure the source is or is not reputable. I have no idea what actually goes on at "UL", but it's probably safe to assume that they don't scrutinize every single product of a given manufacturer down to the last detail. They probably don't even disassemble the 'to be certified' item to any great degree. Nor do they go to the manufacturer's assembly plant to see what goes on there. If a manufacturer seeking certification for a product has done their homework & provides all the spec sheets & possibly engineering data for the product they want certified, the boys & girls at UL probably don't even look at it before giving it the green light. I'm just guessing with those assumptions & could be totally off the mark. But if they actually do all the tests required for a 'safe' certification on a sample product, what's to stop a manufacturer from cutting corners after they have the coveted label? The manufacturer is also at the mercy of suppliers of other components that are part of the assembled end product. Could get a bad batch of wire for the power supply they're putting together with the UL label on it. You could end up with a Monday morning or Friday afternoon power supply!
I guess what I'm attempting to get across here is that a UL or CSA sticker on an electrical component is no absolute guarantee that it might not blow up in your face anyway. Chances are probably better than with one of 'dubious' heritage, but given the dumb things folks do with electrical stuff, certified or not, (like fully submerging a 110 volt heater, control head and all, under water) some will burn their houses down regardless of a sticker. And the whole low voltage thing can be misleading as h. If you've ever taken a long metal object & shorted it across a 12 volt 120 ampere/hour battery you will know what arc welding is all about. Might not get a shock, but can start a fire just as easily as a higher voltage component. So yeah, by all means have a close look at all the electrics you have plugged in, not only on your tank, but around the house. It's usually pretty easy to determine if it's a good quality product & safe to use. More importantly, use the item as intended, especially around water. For me, the fewer things with electrical cords actually in the water the better. This is why I prefer EcoTech power heads over Koralias or Jebaos, even Tunzes. Not because of a sticker on the power supply.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() Last edited by mike31154; 11-06-2013 at 03:06 AM. |