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#1
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![]() I didn't mean for you to boost your lighting at this point. I'm just pointing out that it's not as extreme as mine was. I'd suggest you leave it be for now, or even turn them down a bit until things recover
Then slowly, and I mean over weeks, turn them back up to where you want them. All the while watch for new signs of bleaching/color changes etc Are they poly, or felt ? I had the poly ones and had the same problem as you Since I've switched to felt they last longer than I need before washing Perhaps you could find a way to lift the skimmer a bit, rather than remove water from the sump ? Either way, sounds like you get the idea |
#2
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I used to be on top if it by wiping it down, but when the algae started growing, I couldn't get it off. It's an acrylic backing and takes so much scraping to even remove. I do wipe that wall down almost daily, using a sponge. Quote:
For feeding, I give my fish NLS pellets/flakes. Then I alternate on other days with Ocean Fresh Pacifica Plankton or Cyclopeeze. I try to feed every single day, but some days are skipped based on my schedule. The nutrient levels are very low. On Thursday I performed a 4 gallon water change using IORC. Nitrate (API) - 0 Phosphate (Hanna ULR) - 9 ppb (0.027 ppm) Calcium (Salifert) - 475 ppm Alkalinity (Hanna) - 7.8 dkH I know they are not balanced. You had mentioned before. How do I get them balanced? I am not dosing in equal parts. I am currently only dosing: Alkalinity (Arm and Hammer) - 25 ML (8 times per day) Calcium Chloride (got it free from another member, maybe it is downflake but they don't remember the brand) - 20 ML (8 times per day) This is dosed through an auto doser. I'll dial the Calcium down a bit. Part of the problem I think is that the salt mix is so high in it's levels that it raises everything up. Then it slowly drops down, but doesn't ever balance as by the end of the week, I do another water change. Quote:
I also dose 1 drop of Pohls CV every so often. Maybe 2 times a week? |
#3
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#4
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![]() Well I feel really silly. I ripped my tank apart and now it looks like a frag tank. Pretty much all the large rocks are outside baking in the sun. OH well, at least I can rebuild a nice bonsai tree like everyone else.
All colonies were pulled and mounted on travertine tiles. I haven't found any AEFW at all, nor any eggs. I must have confused and misidentified it with rotifiers or copepods? I saw two creatures jump out of the coral when it was in an iodine dip and die. Can flat worms run around really fast? yah!!!!!! I believe the issue was not due to water quality but actually due to low alkalinity. I replaced the regent and it was way off. I'm hoping to run my ALK much higher now at about 9dKH to ensure I don't have these issues anymore. I'm assuming with the ALK at 6.2 dKH, the tips got burnt and the STN started. I'm going to put all 6 banks on 6500K and just grow the coral out. Once they are large enough, i'll focus on coloring them up. |
#5
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EDIT: Ah, Hanna Checker. You experienced a big difference with new reagents? That's not comforting. Do you know anyone with an Elos kit within expiry that could double check for you? Salifert reads about 1 dKH high. Last edited by Myka; 06-30-2013 at 01:38 PM. |
#6
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![]() Can low alkalinity burn tips? Mostly it is high alkalinity. Before I started dosing my alkalinity was often low, even lower than 6 and it never burnt any tips in my sps.
Burnt tips and STN are probably 2 different problems and that they happen at the same time probably means that there is something quite out of wack with your system, not sure what.
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_________________________ More fish die from human stupidity than any other disease... |
#7
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![]() I was thinking the same thing, but OP wants to experiment.
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#8
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![]() Probiotics with a kH over 8.2 is just asking for it. Leave it between 7.0 and 8.0.
/experienced Zeovit user here.
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This and that. |
#9
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Also, wiping daily involves a simple sponge and it's a 2 minute job. If I left it to build a film up, it takes longer to scrub. |