Nanoreefnewbie 2012 nano contest entry - Page 2

Enigma · #1 10-23-2012, 04:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nanoreefnewbie

I'm using the api saltwater mater marine test kit...i tested every second day and nitrates didn't lower a tad...maybe 20 ppm then shoot right back up in a few days...

How long have you had the test? Was it new? Is there an expiry date on it? Has it ever given you a low or "zero" reading at any point?

coolhandgoose · #2 10-23-2012, 05:01 AM

Sorry for the confusion. GE makes about 100 different kinds of silicone. The ones you get from Home Depot are the silicone I and II, don't use this. Get the SCS1200 which you get from a contractors store. Or get the stuff from the LFS.

Again sorry for the confusion.

nanoreefnewbie · #3 10-23-2012, 05:14 AM

Well here are perimeters again

My unmixed ro water all read zero even nitrates so not faulty or out dated kit...

For saltwater in tank(not in mixing bucket)

Ph 7.8
Ammonia 0.25 ppm (shocked cause been zero for weeks now)
Nitrite 0ppm
Nitrate

40-80ppm

Phosphate 0.5ppm
Temp 78-79 degrees
Sality1.026-.027

nanoreefnewbie · #4 10-23-2012, 05:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coolhandgoose

Sorry for the confusion. GE makes about 100 different kinds of silicone. The ones you get from Home Depot are the silicone I and II, don't use this. Get the SCS1200 which you get from a contractors store. Or get the stuff from the LFS.

Again sorry for the confusion.

OH okay thank you

nanoreefnewbie · #5 10-23-2012, 05:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Enigma

How long have you had the test? Was it new? Is there an expiry date on it? Has it ever given you a low or "zero" reading at any point?

Bought the test new and ammonia nitrites have read zero never nitrates

The Grizz · #6 10-23-2012, 05:28 AM

Hang in there bud, we're here to help trouble shoot with.

1st. GE SCS1200 ( clear or black ) is the absolute only thing to use. It what all the GOOD tank builders use & I am sure if you need some Concepts can hook you up. I'm just going to throw this out there, if I read correct you got the tank used & if so you can't always be sure of what was in it before. When I get a tank that I am going to use for salt I peel out the inside cornor beads & reseal unless I absolutely 100% trust the person I got it from.

2nd. It might be an idea to see if there is someone close to you with a large system that has some extra rock in there sump that you could swap with to seed the rock faster to see if that helps. Some rock can be very absorbant & depending on how long it was in a system it might have absorbed a tone of crap. I have a few 100 lbs of dry rock & when I want to add a nice piece to the tank I throw it in my big sump for a few weeks after a good soak / wash in RO water ( my whole house is RO water so it's easy for me ). Then I move it to where ever I want it. If I was closer I would gladly do it for you.

3rd. Defenitly check the test kit like others suggest. May be take a water sample to a fellow reefer or LFS ( Golds, Oceans, Wei's or there is 2 guys at Big Al's that really know there stuff Ryan is one of them but can't remember the other guys name )

If I have repeated some of what others have suggested, my bad, I just skimmed your posts to see what issues your having. I will go back & read it again to see if anything pops out at me.

nanoreefnewbie · #7 10-23-2012, 05:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Grizz

Hang in there bud, we're here to help trouble shoot with.

1st. GE SCS1200 ( clear or black ) is the absolute only thing to use. It what all the GOOD tank builders use & I am sure if you need some Concepts can hook you up. I'm just going to throw this out there, if I read correct you got the tank used & if so you can't always be sure of what was in it before. When I get a tank that I am going to use for salt I peel out the inside cornor beads & reseal unless I absolutely 100% trust the person I got it from.

2nd. It might be an idea to see if there is someone close to you with a large system that has some extra rock in there sump that you could swap with to seed the rock faster to see if that helps. Some rock can be very absorbant & depending on how long it was in a system it might have absorbed a tone of crap. I have a few 100 lbs of dry rock & when I want to add a nice piece to the tank I throw it in my big sump for a few weeks after a good soak / wash in RO water ( my whole house is RO water so it's easy for me ). Then I move it to where ever I want it. If I was closer I would gladly do it for you.

3rd. Defenitly check the test kit like others suggest. May be take a water sample to a fellow reefer or LFS ( Golds, Oceans, Wei's or there is 2 guys at Big Al's that really know there stuff Ryan is one of them but can't remember the other guys name )

If I have repeated some of what others have suggested, my bad, I just skimmed your posts to see what issues your having. I will go back & read it again to see if anything pops out at me.

No you covered it all good..ill be goin too contesters store tommorrow work construction soo that's easy

and tank was used for fresh before I got it and I cleaned it super good...and I did check my stuff again should be perimeters posted...

On another note is anyone out there where I can swap some half live rock over for some live rock too help me jump start fastr and take more bio load

...

fishoholic · #8 10-23-2012, 06:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Grizz

Was the rock fully cured?

Quote:

Originally Posted by nanoreefnewbie

Nope

Quote:

Originally Posted by nanoreefnewbie

I think it's from my curing rock...
Ro water is been used
40lbs rocks 38 dry/2 live too seed

The problem is your rock. You have to think of your tank as only having 2 pounds of rock in it. In a new system if the 38 pounds were completely dry it will take around a year to cure with only 2 pounds seeding it. Yes I said a year after 6 months it will begin to seed and start becoming live causing spikes along the way, after a year it might be fully cured. You should not have any livestock in the tank right now as it's not cycled and with that much dry rock it will be 6 months before it starts to cycle and up to a year before you stop seeing spikes and killing off livestock.

No offense to you (and I'm not referring to you) but I get frustrated with numerous people cheeping out and buying 95% dry rock and 5% live and then wondering why on earth they are having so many issues. I've told many people who want to use mostly dry rock not to and said to them if they do they should wait 6 months to a year before adding anything live and they look at me in disbelief. These same people don't listen, do it the way they want to, and get frustrated and confused when they have nothing but problems.

Not sure if you have any livestock in there now but I would look at re-homing it until the tank cycles. Or if you can find someone to swap out some of your dry rock for live that should help, however that seems unlikely. Edit: I see Denny to the rescue!

Doing tons of water changes is pointless in a system that isn't cycled. The high nitrates aren't good but I'd bet they're not as much of the issue as I'm guessing the mini ammonia spikes your most likely having from the dry rock in your tank. Focus on getting the rock cured and I'll bet most of your issues will clear up afterwards.