New to RODI

[gregzz4]

Thanks Myka and I read up on drinking DI water. I see enough info to stay away from it.
For the membrane, I'll definately go with either a 75 or 150 with the next purchase, and I know what you mean about the restrictor. Too bad for me I didn't want to bother anyone before I bought the 100gpd unit I have now. It'll definately do the trick.
I could have bought the fancy shmancy Vertex automatic unit for what I've spent on what I have, but I have 2 gauges, 3 TDS meters and the ability to by-pass the DI.
5 of one and 6 and a half, or is that 7, of the other, oh, no wonder my budget is off

[gregzz4]

So I got sidetracked with the repairs ...
A couple of my questions are, do I need to stir my storage tank ? Aerate it or heat it ? I'll gather heating it is a waste as it's in a warm room.

[PFoster]

Originally Posted by gregzz4

I'm finally making water with a 100gpd RODI unit
My questions are;
-do I need a powerhead in the storage tank
-is there any point in a heater for the storage tank as it's in a heated room

I think you are in good hands with the other questions so I will add a bit to these.

You do not need a power head in your storage bin BUT if you add one (or better yet an air pump) if will bring up the pH of your fresh salt water before you add it to your system.
Test the pH of your freshly mixed sw, I can pretty much guarentee that the pH is low and this is done intentionally by the manufacturers as the lower pH allows the salt to mix faster.

As for a heater again its not required but it would help reduce the swings when you do your water changes.

The more stable your system is, the better your corals will look.

[gregzz4]

Thanks P
I have heaters and powerheads for my ATO and New Saltwater holding tanks, so no concern there about variances.
About the pH in the storage drum... that rings a bell, but I don't recall what I read. I'll have to look around today about that as I want to know how that happens.

[gregzz4]

I've been messin' around with the flush valve on the RO unit. I've found that I can totally shut off the waste water line, and then I get nearly 100gpd, based on some math.
I think I'll run it around 80gpd and flush it every couple of hours.
Otherwise, if I use the valve in it's normal position, I only get about 40gpd, with a lot of waste. No point wasting all that water with the incoming TDS @ only 7-8ppm.

[hillegom]

Did you install a flow restrictor in the line? If the correct one is in there, you will get 100gpd with 400 gal waste. The flush valve should only be used to back flush the membrane, otherwise it should be shut off.
If you do not get 100gpd form a 100gpd membrane, then either your feed water pressure is too low, or the temp of incoming water is too cold.
I don't have a flush valve, the last membrane lasted 3 yrs. I have been debating whether I should instal one, but some co. speak against flushing.
So until I can research more, I won't backflush.

[gregzz4]

Ya, I've been debating the whole idea of playing with the valve. With it completely closed, I'm not getting 100gpd.
I think I'll get a restrictor as this unit didn't come with one, neither inline nor in the output elbow.
Thanks again