Looking for RO/DI Solution - Calgary

[mike31154]

Certainly you may use just RO, but in all likelihood you will end up with a trace of TDS at the output. The problem is, there's no way of telling what that 1 or 2 TDS is comprised of. Probably harmless to you & I, but over the long term it will affect what's going into your aquarium. Probably not a big deal, but on the other hand, having the DI stage there is not going to slow down your production that much if at all and the DI media should last a long time if the membrane output is at 1 or 2. Adding the DI stage shouldn't break the bank either. You can still tee off a line after the RO stage to run to your fridge or a drinking faucet, whatever.

You're on the right track to get a handheld TDS meter to test your source water before buying a system. Another good idea is to get a pressure guage, should be less than $20 and not that hard to find. Most hardware stores and certainly irrigation system suppliers will have guages made specifically for measuring water pressure. I picked up two at Princess Auto. You want at least 60 psi for efficient performance. Water pressure, probably more than any other factor will have the greatest impact on production of good as well as waste water. There's more than likely a PRV (Pressure Regulating Valve) in your home plumbing just downstream of the water meter. If you can locate that, chances are it's adjustable. I've tweaked mine to provide just over 80 psi. I think most RO membrane performance numbers are based on 70 psi as well as a certain temperature which I don't recall at the moment.

Had a quick look at the report from the City you linked to and didn't see if they used Chlorine or Chloramine to treat the drinking water. You should confirm which since this will determine whether you need two carbon stages (Chloramine) or just one (Chlorine). I suspect a fellow Calgarian can jump in here & provide that info.

[molotov]

Hey Mike, I also read some of your old threads on this topic as well. I think I must have read the thread where yourself and Mika went over this topic. I haven't looked for the valve you mentioned yet but will do so probably tonight. I suspect I shouldn't have an issue with water pressure as my house is not lacking in that department.

I also just stumbled on a water saving upgrade kit from the same supplier.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/...grade-kit.html

I think I'm getting closer and closer to finding the solution that will work best for me.

Thank you all for your input. It is very much appreciated. I thought this is probably the very foundation on which I will build so I want to make sure it's done right the first time.

[Myka]

That upgrade kit works essentially the same way I am working my system except I am using one 150 gpd membrane instead of two 75 gpd. The way they do it is "safer" for the membrane, but I'm getting more efficiency. Also be aware that you need 65 psi through your tap for the water to actually come out at 150 gpd whether you use one or two membranes.

Originally Posted by molotov

I was still wondering if I can get away with just an RO unit or should I be using a full RO/DI unit? If I can get away with just an RO unit then I can run a line to my fridge as save on the cost of replacing the $75 filter in my fridge every year.

Split the line after the RO. Run one of those lines to your fridge, then the other to your DI (which then runs to your RO/DI storage container). I'm not sure how the plumbing on a fridge works though...do you have a pressure tank for it, or does it run off tap pressure?

Originally Posted by molotov

After searching through their site I found what I think is the solution for me.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/.../category/182/

This looks like a good idea for you, but I don't think you would need the pressure storage tank for your fridge...? I would think if you need a storage tank that you would already have it? I don't know much about plumbing the fridge.