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#1
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![]() Also you may want to consider an electronic thermometer, usually for around $20 or so, or you can just use a glass one floating in your sump, you'll get a more consistent reading. The stick-on-the-glass kind are a neat novelty but not really the best for a solid reading since they are on the outside of the glass so the tank temperature has to travel through the glass and also fight with the room air temperature and so on.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#2
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#3
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![]() What do you have for a skimmer?
What are your plans for the sump area? things like reactors, cheato, etc?
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#4
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As to what pump I recommend "per se" is a difficult question to answer, each pump will have pros/cons and some will better suit someone to a task over others - it's a little like Ford vs Chevy or something. In general Mag drives have been dependable workhorses for me, but they are not the quietest nor the least-power draw for the amount of flow. But dependable, and easy to service (ie., can replace the impeller housing if need be, or the impeller itself, for reasonable cost). Eheims tend to be the best blend of quiet, efficiency at power draw and volume output. But also tend to be the most expensive to buy, so they get you one way or the other. I'm running a Hydor Seltz as a sump return on one tank and I like the pump. Smaller than the equivalent Mag drive, quieter, and less energy used. For a while there they were really popular and easy to find but nowadays they seem harder to find someone who sells them. It's not like you should regret the purchase of the Rio Hyperflow. It is a good pump. I just found the longevity factor with it wasn't there though compared to others. If, a year or two from now you find that it's not starting for you, take it apart and check the magnet. If it's a perfect cylinder then it's still fine but if it has started to swell and is more egg shaped then you know that it's done at that point.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
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#6
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![]() Most important, check the tank for leaks.
3 Key steps setting up a new tank: 1 - Patience 2 - Patience 3 - Patience For the beginning, try to get some used salt water, and a cup or 2 of sand to start "seeding" the tank with bacteria. You can also use products like Prodibio's Start Up, or Seachems Stability. To keep the costs down, don't go overboard with the salt, you can use basice IO salt, then upgrade to reef crystals. Keep your salinity lower, you don't need to have 1.025, you can get away with 1.020 (use less salt during the setup time). Make sure your refactometer is calibrated. Ditch the stick on thermometer Timers for your lights I would recommend a second heater, so if one fails there is a backup. Also less work on just 1 heater. Next step is preparing your live rock, we warned, buying used live rock is great, but be prepared for organisms that may be already growing on the rock that you may not want in your tank. In all our new setups, unless the customer has his own rock, we will supply new semi-cured live rock that have been sitting in our holding tanks for a few weeks. you should be able to get any help on these forums or your LFS, but if you need, don't hesitate to contact me here. Ken - BWA Last edited by BlueWorldAquatic; 10-17-2010 at 05:07 PM. |