Humidifier Float Valve

[Delphinus]

The one drawback about how I do it is if I drill the hole in the wrong spot then I'm stuck with a hole I either have to live with or patch, and either way sucks. The hole needs to be about 1.5" (maybe more, I can't remember for sure offhand) above where you want your waterline. So a slotted attachment point instead of a hole allows you to position the valve where you want it, as long as you can still attach it solidly (ie., any wiggling would be "bad"). And then if you want more water or less water in your sump you can adjust the valve to a new position and retighten, rather than drill a new hole.

But the slot then has to be IN the sump of course, and not the tank wall.

[RCFA]

I guess I'm still a bit confused...so does the float valve on your RO clean water discharge line create enough back pressure to shut the automatic shut off valve? Or does everyone have a pressure tank that then goes to a float valve? Maybe I should sketch a Process flow diagram so it is clear in my head.

[mark]

Originally Posted by RCFA

I guess I'm still a bit confused...so does the float valve on your RO clean water discharge line create enough back pressure to shut the automatic shut off valve? Or does everyone have a pressure tank that then goes to a float valve? Maybe I should sketch a Process flow diagram so it is clear in my head.

Output from the ro/di tee'd to the float valve and pressure tank. Ran the unit with tank off and ASOV still shuts the input to the membrane. Did have some problems that ro/di was always making waste even with output off and kept going to the ASOV, ends up was the check valve off the membrane.

[sphelps]

Originally Posted by RCFA

I guess I'm still a bit confused...so does the float valve on your RO clean water discharge line create enough back pressure to shut the automatic shut off valve? Or does everyone have a pressure tank that then goes to a float valve? Maybe I should sketch a Process flow diagram so it is clear in my head.

It wouldn't make a difference, the pressure on the float would be the same with or without a pressurized storage tank once the tank is full. The tank is simply an accumulator which stores volume, nothing more. The float will be able to hold the pressure from the RO but in my mind you'd be pretty foolish to hook a mechanical float directly to an RO unit without some kind of safety. This is a big no-no in the hobby and I'm surprised people actually do it. Tony has the right idea if you want to use a mechanical float for an ATO.

[mark]

Did the slotted acrylic (with a router but probably a table saw would work) as wasn't sure where I wanted the level. Piece is inside the tank, no pressure on it so the silicone holds it okay.

Was planning on placing a reservoir in the joist space above the sump and gravity feed (even bought a 20g poly tank that ended up being just a little too big so returned) but then the issue was I'd need to remember to fill it up every 10 days or put on a ATO (maybe using a humidifier valve). This works, no wires to short, switches to jam, solenoids to fail open. Have come across on RC where people have flooded their tanks but never seen with a simple 10 buck valve, but with $500 controllers.

As for the membrane, wondering if TDS creep another little misinfo. First membrane lasted around 2 years, more than that on this one. I will notice after many many months a increase in TDS, but change the DI and back to zero.

[superduperwesman]

Originally Posted by Delphinus

But the slot then has to be IN the sump of course, and not the tank wall.

ahah Yeah I failed to realize that part. At first it looked like the slot was in the wall of the tank... one of those days I guess ahaah