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#1
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![]() That looks so realistic and your journal website is too good. Props to you!!
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Maintaining Alk at 8 dKh since 2016... |
#2
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I think that one of the reasons that the hobby has taken to using them for this application is that small diameter CPVC globe valves are a specialty item. They're high cost and generally unavailable (IPEX doesn't even list them on their website). The same can be said for butterflys and they've some additional real estate requirements. In all actuality ball valves have better throttling characteristics than gates... but try fine tuning a stiff plastic quarter turn ball valve. |
#3
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For cost I would recommend the ball valves and put the extra time in to set them just perfect. By no means im I saying its wrong or cant be done to use gate valves to throttle, but with that said I feel little remorse for people that take the easier at the time approach to projects that should have a little more energy put into them. |
#4
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As for ball valves they are horable and the worst valve you can use in this aplication for throttling as they have a non linear opening quality. I ended up pulling all the balls out of my system and throwing them in the garbage. One thing I would add is I am against any valves on the return lines unless they are only for isolating for maintenance. throttling a return is just asking for trouble at some point. if you want to varry the flow between the sump and the fuge use line size to do it. if you want to varry flow through the system then throttle the pressure side of the pump. Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. Last edited by StirCrazy; 11-19-2009 at 02:37 PM. |
#5
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my tank |
#6
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![]() Quote:
Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#7
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![]() Ok so a change of plan. Im going away from the SQWD idea and will be using an OM of some sort. Either build my own or buy one. So i have 2 designs to pick from for tank layout:
Option1: Rear overflow box, im concerned about the depth of the box not being enough and getting a gurgling sound from my herbie??? ![]() Option2: Centre overflow: ![]() Which one would you pick based on cost to manufacture, ease of maintenance and also asthetics ( My main concern!, I hate seeing equipment etc, even outside of the tank ). Mr OM, the drawings are just for ideas and proposed layout, when i build im down to millimeters!! 5 Year engineering apprenticeship fundamentals drilled into me!!!! I cant be bothered to do a fully accurate CAD drawing for something i will be building. If it was for someone else to build, now thats a different story!!! Any help would be much appreciated VR
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View my Aquarium & Reef Controller build here: ![]() The Ultimate DIY Aquarium Controller of the 21st Century!!! LED's, PH, Salinity, Clock, LCD, ATO, Auto Water Changer, Variable Speed Cooling Fan Control and lots, lots more...... Last edited by Vancouver Reefer; 11-20-2009 at 07:06 AM. |
#8
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![]() ...................and you know i couldnt resist!!!!!
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View my Aquarium & Reef Controller build here: ![]() The Ultimate DIY Aquarium Controller of the 21st Century!!! LED's, PH, Salinity, Clock, LCD, ATO, Auto Water Changer, Variable Speed Cooling Fan Control and lots, lots more...... |
#9
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![]() If you are concerned about the herbie then do the overflow deeper, lose just 2 outlets from a 2 way at the bottom of the back of the tank, the upper 2 are doing nothing to help the flow anyway the way they are drawn, get the water to move from back to front at the bottom, fire the sump returns down the back glass, by doing this the surface water will move from front to back and get the best pre skim.
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#10
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![]() You mean like this:
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__________________
View my Aquarium & Reef Controller build here: ![]() The Ultimate DIY Aquarium Controller of the 21st Century!!! LED's, PH, Salinity, Clock, LCD, ATO, Auto Water Changer, Variable Speed Cooling Fan Control and lots, lots more...... |