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#1
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![]() Have you possibly considered the fact that it is your source of livestock that is the actual issue here? Is everything you've purchased from the same LFS? Can you describe the corpses? Are their spots on them, are they bloated, what is the time frame from addition to death, etc?
You can successfully run a SW tank without RO/DI water. I used to live in Edmonton, and I ran tanks for quite some time with tapwater. I used a good conditioner, Prime, and let it sit (in a rubbermaid with a circulation pump) for at least 2 days before using it. Eventually down the line though you may want to invest in an RO/DI system, however you do not have to. Do you have a camera? Can you post a few pictures of your set up? To answer your other questions 1) Ammonia, just keep doing regular water changes, 10-15% as you were doing until it comes down. The ammonia may be the result of decay as you mentioned. 2) You're pH is actually low, assuming you're talking about the reading of 7.0. I'm wondering about your salt, so I'm waiting to hear about about that. 3) Acclimating fish - there are lots of schools of thought on it. Pick whichever you feel works best for you. 4) Find out what type of salt you are using 5) Bump your specific gravity up, SLOWLY, to 1.024-1.025 6) Test kits - see if you can meet up with someone here, or take your water sample to another LFS and just see what they say. As well make sure you are tracking your parameters in a notebook or a spreadsheet. This will let you easily identify known issues, or pinpoint any problems. So if I was you, I would be changing out 10%-15% of my water each week to lower the ammonia levels, like you are doing. I would also be watching my tank for any dead fish that need to be removed asap. While I did water changes I would be slowly uping my S.G. levels. Also don't add any fish, etc. until you've got this sorted out. Right now your biggest issues seem to be Ammonia levels, pH, and fish, in that order. Try attacking them systematically and see what happens. |
#2
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![]() 1. can use treated tap, not ideal in the long run but think about a ro/di in the future.
2. Ammonia, water changes, time and don't add anymore livestock. 3. pH, raise salinity good aeration, but wouldn't worry to much 4. I drip for shrimp, some corals but for fish, add water by the cup, works 5. If it a marine salt, again wouldn't worry, Sifto or water softener be concerned 6. I started with Hagen, but moved to Saifert as found easier. Numbers between the kits really weren't too for off from each other. For pH I had to give up on the test kits and got a meter. 7. salinity 1.026 is the ideal and a lot depends on the method of testing, found my swing arm one day was good, next day was toast against a refractometer. Anyway here's values to go for NSW. Also not knocking Canreef members and everything here is good advice but remember we have the same range of experience as LFS employees. Relaxing hobbie eh? |
#3
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![]() Quote:
![]() Tap water is not the best, but many successful people here use it. Again, not likey your problem. what kind of salt your using is important, maybe check it and report back. Ammonia is too high if you can read it, so yes, you need to find the dead fish. Sucks, I know, but you gotta get it out. The tank is too small to support natural decomposition. I agree with Canadian, dripping for an hour is not required, I float to match temp, dump them in. Salifert kits are good. Elos kits are good. Specific gravity is too low for a reef, it should be 1.026. But, at this point, you're just trying to keep fish alive, 1.022 will not be harmful to them. Now wait until you stabilize things a bit, do a water change to get rid of ammonia, next time you get one fish only, acclimate as described by Canadian, and see if you have better luck. If someone here has offered to test your water, take them up on it, a third opinion is great.
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Brad |
#4
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![]() Tonight I will tear down the tank and try to find the goby and make sure I grab the brand of salt...
I keep track of all my tests in my iPod so I have them with me whenever I need them... I am using a refractometer (the swing arm was just way to inconsistent) so I will slowly start to increase my salinity. Should be relatively easy to do with the more frequent water changes... You guys are really awesome...this whole board just being there for people like me and taking the time to help out...Really...thanks!!! I cant say it enough... |
#5
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As per dumping in...if his salinty is 1.022 and the stores is 1.025 or 1.026 then simply dumping is foolhardy...if his is higher then it is a bit less shock, but if his is lower than the stores i would say dumping them in is bad advice.
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I once had a Big tank...I now have two Huskies and a coyote |
#6
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![]() What brand of salt are you using?
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#7
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![]() I am just getting over a major tank crash, I lost all my fish over night. However, I did learn alot. My suggestion is, go to the LFS and buy an O2 test kit, they are only $15. I had no O2 in my tank, none. I now have a sump and I raised my O2 using airstones and a few other tricks. Oh yah, the LFS cannot test for O2 because the water has to be tested as soon as it comes out of the tank. Hope this helps.
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#8
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![]() Thanks for the tip...I have an air stone in there but I will pick up a tester just in case...
Anyone have any thoughts on the salt I was using? Just to recap I am using Coralife Scientific grade Marine salt. It's almost an empty bag and once its done I have a big tub of instant ocean sea salt. |
#9
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Oh, and I wouldn't waste money on an O2 test kit. Unless you get a major die off, or huge algae bloom, your O2 levels will be fine. Maintaining decent flow in your tank is sufficient to off gas the CO2, and O2 just loves to replace it. Most tanks with normal temps and stocking will always have sufficient O2.
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Brad |
#10
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![]() In your opinion, is a single power head good enough flow for a 33 gallon tank with 50 lbs or rock? I have been debating getting a second power head with an oscillating head or replacing the one I have with one...
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