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#1
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Quote:
The test kits you have are not very high quality, and their accuracy is hot or miss at best. I believe your pH is low (which is often the case in new tanks) I don't believe your pH is that low provided you have aragonite sand in the tank, and use marine salt in your water! I also don't believe you have an ammonia reading without seeing nitrite. If you have ammonia in a cycled tank you should have nitrite as well. You could have nitrite without ammonia though, but it would be a sign that ammonia was recently present. I believe that either you DO have ammonia, but also have nitrite, or you don't have ammonia and may or may not have nitrite. Doing a water change is a good idea. 10-15% is definately not too much, you can do 90% water changes provided you match specific gravity, temperature, and pH very closely. For smaller water changes as long as you're close on the temp and salinity you should be good to go. Make sure you allow fresh saltwater to mix with a powerhead and heater for 24 hours before using it for a water change. Your specific gravity is far too low for a reef tank, it should be 1.026. Slowly raise it up to that level over a week or ten days. Take your hydrometer (assuming you're using a swing arm hydrometer) to your LFS and get them to check it's accuracy at 1.026 against their refractometer so that you know how much your hydrometer it out by. Almost all hydrometers are out, by as much as 0.008 I have seen! You need to get a more accurate reading for your alkalinity. 120-160 ppm is a huge gap. 120 is too low, and 160 is barely high enough. Take a quick skim through the chemistry guide and the getting started guide in my signature. You might find some key information in there you are missing. Last edited by Myka; 03-18-2009 at 05:33 AM. |
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#2
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+++1
That is only part of the problem. The other part is that they are salesmen whose product carries no guarantee and if you need to replace your livestock on a regular basis all the better. A part of it may be bad fish as has been suggested. But if that is what you suspect then a trip to a different store may be in order. If those parameters were what they considered good I would certainly question their knowledge. I would also check the temperature you are keeping your livestock at. Many people keep it at a much lower temperature than optimal. While it may not kill your fish directly, it will contribute to the stress. Finally, don't tear apart your tank unless you do have reason to suspect that there is a rotting fish. The small burrowing snails should be necessarius (sp?) snails. They will usually eat the dead fairly effectively. Good luck with the tank and keep reading. Oh, you likely already know- but be careful how you clean the fluvial- you don't want to kill or replace all of the bacteria on the filter. Which actually brings me to the next question (though unrelated to a complete crash...) how much live rock did you include in the tank?
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"Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else." -- Frederick Bastiat |
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#3
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What brand of salt are you using?
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#4
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I am just getting over a major tank crash, I lost all my fish over night. However, I did learn alot. My suggestion is, go to the LFS and buy an O2 test kit, they are only $15. I had no O2 in my tank, none. I now have a sump and I raised my O2 using airstones and a few other tricks. Oh yah, the LFS cannot test for O2 because the water has to be tested as soon as it comes out of the tank. Hope this helps.
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#5
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Thanks for the tip...I have an air stone in there but I will pick up a tester just in case...
Anyone have any thoughts on the salt I was using? Just to recap I am using Coralife Scientific grade Marine salt. It's almost an empty bag and once its done I have a big tub of instant ocean sea salt. |