photo periods

[lorenz0]

lol but i am not complaining about major lose of color. My green tabling acro got slightly lighter, but in turn my pink birds nest actually became pink. before it was like a dull purple with blue polyps and now its actually pink. But when i am talking about the light being to intense for certain corals its true. at first i set the stylo higher in the tank and the base orange started to go white, so i moved it back down to the sand and the base color came back. now after 1 day of cutting down the lighting the stylo and the green polyp birdnests are starting to gain color again (the birdsnest bleached out during shipping). I know my tank is young but i haven't lost any colonies, just had some issues with smaller frags. no biggy. but this thread isn't about me, more about an informative link talking about photo periods.

[Myka]

Originally Posted by lorenz0

but this thread isn't about me, more about an informative link talking about photo periods.

Exactly, so why don't you two go make a thread that you can scrap it out instead of using this one? This thread is an interesting topic.

Mods? Would be nice if you could clean this thread up please.




I wonder also how effective this cutback photoperiod would be for people who don't have supplimental lighting, or lack the ability to turn certain bulbs on an off independently. Like, say my 33g tank which has 2 T5s which are on for 11 hours a day (I think lol). Seeing as they aren't overly intense, I'm wondering if a cutback photoperiod would be beneficial or detrimental. I'm looking to add a MH to the setup, so eventually it will be a moot point for me, but in the case of others whose lighting isn't overly intense, I wonder if a longer photo period would be more or less beneficial. The same that I wonder if a tank with 250w halides would need a longer photo period than that same tank with 400w halides over it? So, in simple terms without all this thinking out loud (lol), does PAR/PPFD play into the equation?

[Aquattro]

Yes, let's keep on topic please.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Originally Posted by Myka

Exactly, so why don't you two go make a thread that you can scrap it out instead of using this one? This thread is an interesting topic.

Mods? Would be nice if you could clean this thread up please.




I wonder also how effective this cutback photoperiod would be for people who don't have supplimental lighting, or lack the ability to turn certain bulbs on an off independently. Like, say my 33g tank which has 2 T5s which are on for 11 hours a day (I think lol). Seeing as they aren't overly intense, I'm wondering if a cutback photoperiod would be beneficial or detrimental. I'm looking to add a MH to the setup, so eventually it will be a moot point for me, but in the case of others whose lighting isn't overly intense, I wonder if a longer photo period would be more or less beneficial. The same that I wonder if a tank with 250w halides would need a longer photo period than that same tank with 400w halides over it? So, in simple terms without all this thinking out loud (lol), does PAR/PPFD play into the equation?

My tank actually has no supplemental lighting. So its literally both 400 watt 20K MH come on at 3PM and both are off at 9PM. I would say PPFD does come into play for sure. My PPFD is actually quite low though based on Sanjays testing.

For me, its working out so well right now, I can't imagine changing. I see my corals and fish all day long, 6 hours under bright light and about 12 hours under room light (my room is very open and bright most days). My power bill is down, no algae or cyano anymore, corals look better than ever. Can't complain.

[Myka]

Originally Posted by GreenSpottedPuffer

My tank actually has no supplemental lighting. So its literally both 400 watt 20K MH come on at 3PM and both are off at 9PM. I would say PPFD does come into play for sure. My PPFD is actually quite low though based on Sanjays testing.

For me, its working out so well right now, I can't imagine changing. I see my corals and fish all day long, 6 hours under bright light and about 12 hours under room light (my room is very open and bright most days). My power bills down, no algae or cyano anymore, corals look better than ever. Can't complain.

Ya, 20K really reduces PAR. Just wondering...why wouldn't you use some supplimental actinics, and change to a lower Kelvin on your halides? I would think you would get better growth just based on that as coral growth is increased with lower Kelvin due to photosynthesis increaasing.

For you guys saying you want to see your fish...do you guys stay home all day? Pfff...I don't like you guys anymore. Wish I could do that! Heck, I haven't even seen my home since December...oh wait, I don't even have a home anymore.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Originally Posted by Myka

Ya, 20K really reduces PAR. Just wondering...why wouldn't you use some supplimental actinics, and change to a lower Kelvin on your halides? I would think you would get better growth just based on that as coral growth is increased with lower Kelvin due to photosynthesis increaasing.

For you guys saying you want to see your fish...do you guys stay home all day? Pfff...I don't like you guys anymore. Wish I could do that! Heck, I haven't even seen my home since December...oh wait, I don't even have a home anymore.

Because the goal of my new tank was to use as little equipment as possible and I am super happy with growth as of now. As for major equipment, I have the two halides, skimmer, controller and ZEO reactor. I also have no canopy to put other lights in. Trying to keep the real sleek and clean look.

I may go back to 14K next bulb change but I doubt it.

More growth in my case is not what I am looking for anyways, its an added bonus. I am after color.

[Doug]

Originally Posted by Myka

Exactly, so why don't you two go make a thread that you can scrap it out instead of using this one? This thread is an interesting topic.

Mods? Would be nice if you could clean this thread up please.




I wonder also how effective this cutback photoperiod would be for people who don't have supplimental lighting, or lack the ability to turn certain bulbs on an off independently. Like, say my 33g tank which has 2 T5s which are on for 11 hours a day (I think lol). Seeing as they aren't overly intense, I'm wondering if a cutback photoperiod would be beneficial or detrimental. I'm looking to add a MH to the setup, so eventually it will be a moot point for me, but in the case of others whose lighting isn't overly intense, I wonder if a longer photo period would be more or less beneficial. The same that I wonder if a tank with 250w halides would need a longer photo period than that same tank with 400w halides over it? So, in simple terms without all this thinking out loud (lol), does PAR/PPFD play into the equation?

Good point on the supplement lighting
I remember someone preaching it on RC, then find out he ran 4 110w vho lights, besides his 250w halides.

I run mine for 10hrs. and my useless actinics for 12. However I only have a single 150w. I may cut it back a bit and see, esp; after I start UltraLith.