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  #1  
Old 11-22-2008, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwickham View Post
that would work, but id like to keep the same amount of flow, just reduce how fast it flows from the main tank to the sump
That's impossible. Water always flows to the sump at the same rate it is pumped out of the sump. If something prevents this from happening, you have overflow.
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  #2  
Old 11-20-2008, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Parker View Post
I'd take the ball valve off the drain side and put it on the return side ( after the pump ) if you want to limit the flow.
Then he'll get less turnover and still have the noise issue?? The only reason his drain occasionally has problems with keeping up to the pump is because he has it restricted... and the only reason he is limiting the drain flow is for noise and bubbles not because he wants less actual flow to the tank

Last edited by superduperwesman; 11-20-2008 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 11-20-2008, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superduperwesman View Post
The he'll get less turnover and still have the noise issue??

IF he is running his return pump wide open at the moment that's all the flow he will ever get out of that pump. If the drain is noisy that's a seperate issue that's needs to be addressed by a solution other then placing a valve on the drain.

Running a valve on the drain is a very dangerous way to regulate flow or noise, snail goes down his drain = flood, valves starts to gather crap, clumps of algae = flood, fish goes down the drain = flood, and it will happen eventually. It's always best to regulate flow on the return side.
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Old 11-20-2008, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asmodeus View Post
Craig its really easy to sort out here keep your plumbing the same way open your ball valve full open.
what you need to do is drill a small hole in your return pipe just above the water line in your tank. This is going to allow you to back siphon the water once it reaches the water line so make the hole just below the water line then the pump goes off the water will drain only to the pipe with the hole. SUPER EASY
This doesn't address his issue... he's trying to use the ball valve to reduce noise... Basically you want a Herbie so your gonna need 2 drains

Last edited by superduperwesman; 11-20-2008 at 03:54 PM.
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Old 11-20-2008, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwickham View Post
hey

i use ball-valves to limit the return from my main tank to the sump. I adjust the level of the tank so that the return is completely under water to reduce micro bubbles and noise.

The problem is that if the power goes out and the tank level drops, air gets into those pipes and when the power comes back on, the air gets trapped at the ball-valve and limits the flow even more cause my tank to overflow if im not there to release the air.

is there any way around this, is there somthing that will shut my return pump off when the water gets to a certain level(just for emergency if im not home)

i have tryed to find a normally open float switch to make somthing, but can only find normally closed ones.

thanks for your help
craig

I haven't read this entire thread, so if it hasn't been mentioned yet, check out the Herbie style overflow, and see if you can mod yours like that.
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Old 11-20-2008, 04:22 PM
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Why not put a strainer on the intake side to prevent anything big from getting in the pipe?

On mine, I have a valve but leave it open. I have a strainer to prevent anything large from getting in it.

As an added precaution my overflow box / return pump section are small enough that there is no way for my tank to flood.
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Old 11-20-2008, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phillybean View Post
Why not put a strainer on the intake side to prevent anything big from getting in the pipe?
I think you can still get a slim build up after some time that will change the outflow enough to slowly overflow your tank even if you had it adjusted perfectly to begin with
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