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View Poll Results: In a perfect world, would you want 220V available for your tank? | |||
Yes |
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33 | 42.31% |
No |
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45 | 57.69% |
Voters: 78. You may not vote on this poll |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1
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![]() Kevin says:
1) Is this just for plugs, or are you putting a sub panel in. 1a) If you are putting a sub panel in, what is the current. |
#2
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![]() I want to do whatever the electrical inspector is going to be more likely to sign off on. Given the layout of the room I don't think there's a good spot for the panel to go that isn't in some form of risk for water contact, so I sort of see that as being the more troublesome option. So if I went 220/240 (and I have to say, I'm really, really tempted NOT to, at this point, for reasons of both cost and effort) I think I would just go with some kind of dryer plug or oven plug (I think they're different, but I don't think it matters because you can get the ends at HD/Rona/etc. so as long as the ballasts had the right plug put on for the outlet).
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#3
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![]() Per Kevin:
If you just run some 10/3 over from your panel to your tank room, you can have 120v receptacles, and as many 220v receptacles as you want. He also says the dryer plugs are fine, or you can get 220v receptacles, and 220v cord ends, this will probably be cheaper route (the receptacles). Kevin says he can drop by and give you a play by play, or do the work for you if you want some extra help. |
#4
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![]() Quote:
When I set up a big tank in Kamloops I will probably bring more then also use 220 for ballast and such. power is the same but less heat is developed for the same power as the current is lower. this is why table saws and air compresors that can run both work much better on 220. also start up draw is lower so less effect on the rest of the power in the house. Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |