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#1
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![]() Are you now using the Seachem Reef Salt?
If so your ALK tests may be inacurate causing your issues. Seachem reef salt has a high borate content giving false result to true alk. The high borate alk-portion involved with Seachem Reef Salt does not contribute to the bicarbonate & carbonate, which are the main components of alkalinity in our tanks but our alk. test kits read it as such, thus with Seachem Reef Salt, if your test result reads say 9.5 DkH the real, effective alkalinity is in the low 8's. In order to keep the DKH stable with Seachem you need to account for about 1.2-1.3 DKH to borate ALK meaning you need to keep your level about this much higher than with IO salt. Make sense? ![]() Quote:
Last edited by Oceanic; 07-05-2008 at 05:45 PM. |
#2
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#3
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![]() I also tried one bucket of sea chem and changed back to reef crystals within a few weeks as I thought the stuff was terrible. I'll never use it again. FYI, I have dosed iodine for years as well. Something else you may want to try is iron, is helps the greens stay brighter. Like Chin said and I eluded to earlier, carbon isn't very selective about what it will absorb so you need to replenish some of the elements from time to time.
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![]() Greg Last edited by Snappy; 07-05-2008 at 06:41 PM. |