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#1
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![]() mhmm...
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Brad |
#2
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![]() .. well even if it was not my intention it seemed to work
![]() Canreef has been pretty quiet as of late anyways.. sometimes you need to rattle the sabres a little bit to get the blood going ![]()
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- Greg 90G : Light - Tek 6xT5 | Skim - EuroReef RS135 | Flow - 2xVortech MP40W | Control - Reef Keeper 2 |
#3
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#4
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![]() Remember though, thats only if you change out your t5's every six months.. how many actually do that? The again how many MH bulbs get changed out every 12 months either
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- Greg 90G : Light - Tek 6xT5 | Skim - EuroReef RS135 | Flow - 2xVortech MP40W | Control - Reef Keeper 2 |
#5
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![]() I change my T5s every 8 months "religiously". HOT5s don't need to be changed every 6 months like NOT5s, NOs, HOs, or PCs. When I have had MH I always changed them out every 12 months. But to each their own.
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#6
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Um, I have seen some pretty sexy MH fixtures also, and some but ugly T5 ones.. so thats not even a discussion point ![]() More bulbs... do you mean in choices or the amount of bulbs you putting over the tank.. if it is by choices to buy I think MH in the 250 range has just as many as every manufacture's 10K is a little different from the others and so one and so one.. I actualy find the lack of different T5's localy a pain only about 6 types and 2 or 3 are freshwater. Heat.. hmmm... lets compare sexy fixture against sexy fixture, Brads twin 150 MH with two PC's seams to throw out less heat downwards than my 24" twin HO T5 set up. ![]() Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#7
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![]() Now I'm embarrassed. I've gone and replaced all the bulbs in my home with those little curly CF bulbs, thinking I'm being environmentally friendly! Now I find out that in order to be a real tree hugger I've got to replace them all with MH fixtures
![]() The only place you see the MH vs T5 debate is in the aquarium hobby. It's all emotional. We don't want to admit we're energy pigs, and we use MHs because we like the look of them, even though it's been proven time and time again that you can keep a beautiful reef with T5s! Everyone else is a little more scientific. A little something from BC Hydro's site. http://www.bchydro.com/business/inve...igate3668.html |
#8
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![]() Steve,
1) How are you measuring and comparing the intensity of T5 lamps to MH? Are you fishing around for a spot of highest intensity or mapping out a grid both horizontally and vertically? 2) What specific T5 lamps were in the T5 fixture you measured? Did the fixture use true individual parabolic reflectors? What fixture was measured? Did the fixture utilize active cooling? How old were the lamps? How high above the water were the fixtures? I'm all for "measuring" things in an attempt to quantify differences but if there's a complete lack of control and standardization then the comparison is as useful as "MH sucks and T5 kicks a$$". And to be fair, I use both MH and T5 in combination ![]()
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SPS Dedicated 24x24x20 Trimless Tank | 20 g Sump | Bubbble King Mini 160 Protein Skimmer w/ Avast Swabbie | NP Biopellets in TLF Phosban Reactor | ATI Sunpower 6 x 24W T5HO Fixture | EcoTech Vortech MP20 | Modified Tunze Nanostream 6025 | Eheim 1260 Return Pump | GHL Profilux Standalone Doser dosing B-Ionic | Steel Frame Epoxy Coated Stand with Maple Panels embedded with Neodymium Magnets "Mens sana in corpore sano" |
#9
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![]() Quote:
Now one thing is that I do not believe in the grid measurements, but rather realistic ones. we don't worry about light in the corner on our tank why should we worry about it for testing. I rather will test the usable area in a tank with water. I have done all over readings on my tank just out of curiosity though and I can tell you my old AB's put out more light in the dimmest area at a depth of 23" of water and 6" of air than my PC's did 6" directly below the bulb. on my standardized jig I can only get to with in 3" of the glass so on a 24" wide tank I can measure the middle 18 inches but since we all try to keep the glass free for cleaning I decided this was realistic. At one time I was in the process of gathering equipment and building a black box tester but after I bought 4 ballasts and 12 bulbs I changed my mind and decided to go with practical "as used" testing. one thing I haven't tested and would like to is this solaris, but I don't know anyone local that is rich enough to have one ![]() Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#10
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![]() Quote:
![]() I agree, given the same depth water, MH are FAR more intense no matter how great the reflectors on the T5s are. This is partly what I was saying. This is EXACTLY what I mean! If you're using one of those 6 or 8 bulb T5 fixtures you're using up just as much power (or more) than if you were to use 250w or less MH, and you'd be getting LESS PAR with the T5s. Hence, MH are far more efficient. Those using 400w MH over 18" deep tanks ARE energy pigs...but I've seen a couple of tanks using 12 T5s side by side that had just as many watts, and try to tell me they aren't energy pigs too? Of course you can keep just as brilliant SPS corals under T5s, but you're using at least as many watts as you would if you were using MH, so what's the point? Do you still think you're being energy-wise? You guys need to learn what PAR is, and how to compare PAR watt for watt. Some of you really aren't getting it. Between me and Steve, one of us is gonna break down and give the lecture... ![]() Last edited by Myka; 04-03-2008 at 02:48 AM. |