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  #1  
Old 08-04-2007, 08:16 AM
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Will a phosphate reactor help at all?
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10g softie and LPS tank(SPS soon) coralife 28w 50/50 rio nano skimmer
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-1 Pulsing xinia
- Green candy cane
- green zoas
- GSP
- Fake percula clown
- Diadem dottyback
adding a 70w MH with 8 LED
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  #2  
Old 08-04-2007, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Mik_101 View Post
Well can I get most of the color out of them?
I found that when I first got into reefs using 2 x 175w over my 70g (18" deep) I could not get good color. Now, if everything else is perfect, they might be ok, but I've never seen a tank that was perfect (well, not many). The first thing you need to realize is that it can take 6 or more months just to build up stability in the tank so that SPS will grow, let alone color up properly.
When I switched to 2 x 400w, my colors got better, but it wasn't until I had a couple of years experience watching my acros turn brown before I could start getting nice colors. You need to make sure that nutrients are 0, pH, Ca and Alk are in range and stable. Flow is important for growth, not so much for color. If you put softies in the tank, it could impact the SPS growth and general happiness. The problem is there are so many things working against you, you really need to know your tank very well. This takes quite a while.
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  #3  
Old 08-04-2007, 03:47 PM
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I feel like I should say something about 175w MH lighting. I use 175w MH on my 24g cube. Yes my cube is 18" deep, but I do find I get good coloration throughout the different levels of my tank. Of course the higher the frag the more "intense" the coloration is. I feel I get good coloration from my lighting, but I attribute it to both a high bulb quality, and having chosen a spectrum that works with my existing lighting. Like Reef_raf said, 175w didn't work for him, but it worked for me, so its all about what works for you.

Mik, what everyone is saying is that 175w MH isn't necessarily the best, and that it has worked for some, and not for others. Before you go looking at upgrading your lights or anything, we're saying you should focus on your water quality.

From what I've been following here is what I would do if I was you.
1) Get my water parameters under control and maintain them for at least 3 months before adding anymore SPS.
2) Step back and reevaluate your set up. How are you existing SPS doing, what about your livestock. Are you seeing growth and color in your SPS? Are you fish thriving? I know you take photos of your setup, so consider keeping a "photo diary" of your existing frags, and see if they grow, color up, or brown out. From there you should be able to ascertain where you need to go next, whether its a lighting upgrade, or something else.

To answer your original question about SPS and flow, this is how I understand it works. Flow helps because it gets the SPS, and LPS to extend their polyps. The heavier the flow the thicker branches seem to appear in SPS because they must withstand the force of the flow. SPS are found on few different types of reefs, each with their own flow and ebb patterns. Flow helps reproduce the natural environment, it provides circulation through branches, and even brings nutrients and disposes of waste. More flow is better, to a point. In my experience, and my tank, my sps like to wave a little, but its just that my experience. Pick up Borneman's Aquarium Corals book, its invaluable in helping you educate yourself on what your keeping, and what we know about these creatures.

A phosphate reactor, using a phosphate remover, will only remove phosphates, it would necessarily give you better coloration.
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Last edited by michika; 08-04-2007 at 03:50 PM. Reason: I have a case of the Saturday morning stupids...
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Old 08-04-2007, 03:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sphelps View Post
Also your levels are out a bit

Ammonia is too high, should read zero, but likely this is just your test kit
Mg is too low, should be around 1200-1300
Alk is too high should be closer to about 8dkh dropping this will likely lower your pH
Cal is pretty good, but could be higher 440 is what I like
I disagree his Alk is good for not having a Reactor , A reactor is kicking out around 10-11 DKH at a constant rate when dialed in along with that the Calcium running at 400
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  #5  
Old 08-04-2007, 05:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asmodeus View Post
I disagree his Alk is good for not having a Reactor , A reactor is kicking out around 10-11 DKH at a constant rate when dialed in along with that the Calcium running at 400
I totally agree. My tank is too small for calcium reactor and I don't want calciums levels over 440.
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10g softie and LPS tank(SPS soon) coralife 28w 50/50 rio nano skimmer
Live stock
-1 Pulsing xinia
- Green candy cane
- green zoas
- GSP
- Fake percula clown
- Diadem dottyback
adding a 70w MH with 8 LED
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  #6  
Old 08-04-2007, 05:33 AM
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Ok I fed my corals and he got quite a bit of color. Thanks for the help though.
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10g softie and LPS tank(SPS soon) coralife 28w 50/50 rio nano skimmer
Live stock
-1 Pulsing xinia
- Green candy cane
- green zoas
- GSP
- Fake percula clown
- Diadem dottyback
adding a 70w MH with 8 LED
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  #7  
Old 08-04-2007, 07:07 AM
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*edited*

Last edited by Doug; 08-04-2007 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 08-04-2007, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
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When is this crap going to stop on here ?
now now.....
Let's keep it civil
I so want this board to not be like alot of the other boards I have to monitor.......
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  #9  
Old 08-04-2007, 07:53 AM
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Ok thanks scsi.
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10g softie and LPS tank(SPS soon) coralife 28w 50/50 rio nano skimmer
Live stock
-1 Pulsing xinia
- Green candy cane
- green zoas
- GSP
- Fake percula clown
- Diadem dottyback
adding a 70w MH with 8 LED
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  #10  
Old 08-04-2007, 07:55 AM
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*edited*

Again, please stick to the topic at hand. Verbal attacks on other members will not be tolerated.
Thanks

Last edited by Doug; 08-04-2007 at 02:44 PM.
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