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#1
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I agree with you all my phosphate readings were also 0 but thought it might be worth a try.... I just finished reading the blog on your website and it basically shot down some of my other theories (contaminated base rock and lighting). But there was some info I couldn't get that might be contributing to the problem. 1) How many and what type of fish do you have in the tank? I see you have at least 1 Tang in there, which will create a lot of waste for the algae to feed on. 2) What is the flow rate. I think you're somewhere between 20-30 times but I couldn't find what return pump you are using. 3) What salt are you using? I've read that some salts can cause the problems (of course I can't remember which or find the thread) 4) How many pounds of live rock do you have in the system? 5) Is the tank 3 months old? If so this might be part of it's maturing process. If this is the case you might just have to wait it out. I'm willing to bet it's #5 but you never know. If you find a way to get the water to flow through the phosphate remover you can turn algae cover rocks over (if no corals are attached to it). The lack of light should kill it and the phosphate remover will lock up the phosphates they release. Just don't turn them all at once as this would probably cause a nitrate spike in your system. I agree with Delphinus this is a rite of passage and it will only take a few minor adjustments and time before you are algae free. Good Luck!
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Setup Mar 2004 50g tank 23g DIY Acrylic Sump\Refugium Sold Dec 2009 ![]() Vacation Fun: http://members.shaw.ca/cabin54/ |
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#2
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Okguy
To answer your questions: 1) fish are the orange shoulder (~1"), who is leaving in the next few weeks, and a six line wrasse. 2) Off the top of my head I don't know what the flow rate is. The return pump is a mag 7, and I'm using a hydor koralia 1 in the display for additional flow. The returns, which come through spray bars, are on a SCWD. 3) I'm using Red Sea Coral Pro. 4) I guess around 30lbs in the display, ~5lbs in the sump, but really its just a pile of frag plugs for pods to propagate in. 5) The tank is actually parts from my 230g, so everything in the tank (aside from new SPS additions and a clam) is around 2-3 years old. The rock has been with me since I started in 2003, so its certainly not new rock. If its a right of passage, shouldn't this have happened in one of my first tanks? This is like my 5th tank, and I've never had to deal with this stuff before. Sometimes I wonder if its the PC bulbs, because before this system I never used supplimental lighting... This is so frustrating. The strangest thing is that this tank used to be set up in the basement of my house while I was preparing to move, and while the 230g tank was dismantled, I didn't have any algae problems before. The only things that changed between then and now are that I used tap water for a few weeks, I added a chiller, added the hydor powerhead (to combat the algae), and some SPS frags. I have to say GHA is worse then getting your tank wiped out by red bugs. |
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#3
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Hey Catherine,
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Each species has their own preferences though, making them better or worse than others for particular algae types. For example, I have a diadema urchin, and... to be honest I'm not sure what his preference is. But this thing eats like a pig. I can feed it pellets, flake, chaeto, .. you name it, as long as it's a herbivore feed he seems to eat it like nuts. I really need to film a video of it catching flake and eating it because it is like nothing I have seen before. He does actually pick out flake from the water column. The tuxedo type urchins seem to rasp the rockwork and glass. They're after coraline algae usually, but something you get this fuzzy hard algae that grows on coraline, they'll totally remove that in the effort to get at the coraline. I bought a "math" urchin in an effort to get at some problematic caulerpa on my rocks. While he took care of it, he's also a "boring" (I don't mean "uninteresting") type urchin meaning he actually burrows into rock (by eating the live rock to make a hole large enough to fit into). This green urchin of mine, that I have not been able to ID, has been a hair algae eating machine. I see him on my nori feeding stick at night so I think that's what he eats now that the tank has been cleaned of hair algae (for the most part). I'll try to snap a picture of him. Think "blue tuxedo urchin" but completely green. I've not seen an ID of this species anywhere online. Colby at Elite seemed to know it though, he said "this one is good for algae" and he called that one right. I wish I could find you an ID because this is the one you want. The others, .... probably not so much. I have a blue tuxedo and the math urchin in the tank with my clams, there are no issues of interaction with them whatsoever. Anyhow, I hope some of this info helps. At some point, I'll try to get a picture of the green urchin to show you so that you know what to look for.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
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#4
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How about a photo? Something I can take with me when I go shopping.
Is the green a dark green or more of a turquiose? |
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#5
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Ummm ... sort of a "light green" I guess. I'll take a photo of it tonight and post it.
__________________
-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |