MH and Heat - turning my tank into soup cooking pot? - Page 2

SeaHorse_Fanatic · #1 01-02-2007, 05:34 PM

No, if heat is an issue, you would only need to keep it running during the hours that your MH is on. Is the door to the room left open or closed during the day? If my tank starts to heat up in our ground floor suite this summer, I will probably get a room a/c unit, which I think is more cost effective than a chiller for each tank. During the winter months is actually a good time to pick one up.

andsoitgoes · #2 01-02-2007, 05:52 PM

that's what I've been thinking about. Gosh this tank is costing me more than I expected

We leave the door to the room closed during the day - we've got 4 cats that would cause rather insane amounts of chaos in the bedroom if we left it open - but I know that's a part of the problem, too.

I'm going to try a few more things, I'm going to keep the surface fan on a timer as well.

How does everyone hook up the PC fans easily? Is there a transformer that will convert the power connection to a standard AC power?

draco · #3 01-02-2007, 07:36 PM

You can get a 450 chiller on ebay new for bettween $500 -$600 right now

fkshiu · #4 01-02-2007, 07:52 PM

Alright, I'll throw my 2 cents in as well.

1. How is your fan pointed? Ideally, you should have it pointing slightly down at the water creating some small waves and ripples rather than entirely parallel with the surface. The reason is that evaporative cooling is dependent on surface area. Your goal is to make your tank "sweat" more. You do this by disturbing the surface to create more surface area allowing more evaporation as opposed to simply attempting to blow hot air away. Aiming your powerheads such that you get more surface agitation also helps.

An additional benefit of more evaporation would be the necessity of having to add more (cool) top-up water.

2. Adding more water via a sump would definitely help since you'd have more water volume to absorb the heat and another surface with which to blow air across for further evaporative cooling.

3. That said, I don't think you have to panic about your temperature being ~80-81 degrees F? Many reefs are kepts in the low 80s.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

This is just one of a number of articles suggesting that such temperatures are fine for reefs.

Chaotic Cricket · #5 01-02-2007, 11:38 PM

Just a quick question regarding your heat issue. How long do you have them on for? What is the kelvin rating of the bulb. I have been told that a 10k bulb will put out more heat than a 14k and 20k will be less than both. If this this is true or not I am not sure as I have never looked into this. I run 14k Hamilton or Phoenix bulbs (aquaconnect seem nice but are pricey and the availability isn't as good as the other two). I also have 20k xm and radium bulbs somewhere. I never really checked to see if the 14k's raised the temp when i switched from the 20k's, and its so long ago i cannot even remember when the last time i had a temp swing in my tank.
As I stated I'm not sure if this information that was given to me is proven or just the opinion of the few who gave it, but if someone else might know, maybe that might help a little. Also for photo period i would have your halides on for no more that 6hours at the most. After all they are to mimic the sun at its zenith (just before and just after as well) and the sun isn't always the same for the full day, so 6 hours is really all you need.

Also remember for some odd reason in reef keeping lower temps than needed are often quoted by people when you ask. I would honestly worry about your tank if it rises in the summer, but for now I would say you are ok.

StirCrazy · #6 01-03-2007, 01:48 AM

a room AC will not be as efficient as a chiller for the tank, but it Will be cheaper and may be enough. if you buy an over sized room ac you might be able to lower the ambient temp to the point where it will help, but you will also get a dehumidifying effect which will help also.

82, is not that bad at all, but you will be looking at about 10 degrees hotter during heat waves no problem.

Steve

Chaotic Cricket · #7 01-02-2007, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andsoitgoes

Okay - first, the low side of chillers I'd need are only about 450 (only, hah) - http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s...t_ID=ch-pc002i

So that answers that problem.

I've got my light a good 4" from the water surface. And it's a Double-Ended HQI bulb as well. Other than the fan, nothing was taking down the temp yesterday, until I turned off the MH...

As for the thermo - I used 2 different kinds. One from my salinity testing probe and one from a coralife electro thermometer. Both gave readings in the 80's - 80, 81, etc.

In the summer my first thought was to just get a small window A/C which I figured would solve the problem, but I know that means I need to keep IT running 24/7 - Surrey in July, yikes!!

Maybe we should just move to Antartica? =/

I thought i might jump in here, this being my first post on canreef. Been around awhile, but the infighting on reefcentral kept me off forums for awhile. Still only lurk around there, but i like what i see here so i registered.

Anyways, most fixtures I've had, and I've had a few. Most manufacturers recommend at least 8 inches or so from the waters surface. I know people put them closer to the water for better penetration, but it brings in new problems. The gain you receive being that close does not outweigh the cost of a chiller. I would put your lights at 10-11 inches up, then move them a half an inch to an inch closer closer until the heat is an issue again, then you will have a balance. If you cannot go with a chiller you will find the fans that you use to cool it will have you constantly filling up with top-off water due to evaporation.