How big can I go while keeping the same light? - Page 2

SeaHorse_Fanatic · #1 03-09-2006, 04:48 AM

Scott,

If you're filling a 40g tank with store-bought water, at about $5/5 gallon, you're looking at $40 just for the water & it'll be a pain transporting that many jugs of water (8 jugs total). You're much better off adding $100 or so to that to get the RODI unit from Aquasafe, instead of upgrading later & wasting your $ now. It's really a worthwhile investment because you can use it for drinking & cooking as well.

Most of the local reefers have one & love it.

Anthony

StirCrazy · #2 03-09-2006, 01:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny Reefer

Die off of what? The live rock? Why would this happen? Personally, I don't think it will, IMHO. I would put your Live Rock all back in the new tank at once. There is nothing better for cycling your tank than LR, IMHO. Heck, I'd bet dollars to doughnuts that you won't even get a cycle that way. I would also add more than just a few lbs, but you could wait on that. Try to match pound/gallon what you have in the 20, eventually, IMHO.

I agree with this, if it is established rock from a running tank and it is going to be out of water for a very short time (less than say 3 hours) then thewre won't be any die off and even if there was a tiny bit there is more than enuf bacteria in the rock to handle it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny Reefer

Speaking of tankwater from the 20....try to save as much of this as possible for the new tank so you are not going with 100% new mixed SW.

this I disagree with, I have set up a new system (either from moving or what ever) about 5 times now and every time I use 100% new salt water. I have never lost anything and all I worry about is getting the PH, Alk and Temp the same in the two tanks.

changing tanks is a perfect time for that 100% clensing waterchange

Steve

TheReefGeek · #3 03-09-2006, 01:55 AM

Guys, I said ADD live rock to the tank, as in he is upgrading his tank and buying more. Of course he is not going to get any die off from his cured live rock already in the tank.

adidas · #4 03-09-2006, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StirCrazy

this I disagree with, I have set up a new system (either from moving or what ever) about 5 times now and every time I use 100% new salt water.

Steve

I always thought you need to at least save maybe 20% of your water when you move the tank, or else won't it start a cycle?? I thought you need the established water because it has the good bacteria in it?

OCDP · #5 03-09-2006, 07:34 PM

Glad you mentioned that , as I thought this was a problem.. but wasn't too sure or not. Perhaps it would be a good idea to keep a few gallons of my water . ?

Thanks for bringing it up

TheReefGeek · #6 03-09-2006, 07:35 PM

I would transfer all your water over you can. You will lose some rinsing the sand and the rocks off, but save the rest for the new tank.

OCDP · #7 03-09-2006, 07:38 PM

Sounds good.

Would it be a bad idea to go with all new sand and keep say a cup of the old to seed the new? Reason being is.... I like the look of new, clean white sand. (mine is all discoloured from algae and such..)

Beverly · #8 03-09-2006, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adidas

I always thought you need to at least save maybe 20% of your water when you move the tank, or else won't it start a cycle?? I thought you need the established water because it has the good bacteria in it?

Compared to the bacteria on your LR, there is little bacteria in the water. I would go with Steve's recommendation that you can start with all new water.

That being said, you will have to acclimatize your fish to the new water.

Also, about scrubbing your rock to get rid of hair algae... Make sure you rinse it really, really well in pails of old tank water. You don't want stray bits of hair algae to get into your new system.

Also, if you have bubble algae, DO NOT scrub it off. Doing so will break open the bubbles and possibly release spores (or whatever it is that they use to reproduce) into your new system and you will have much worse bubble algae in the new system. No amount of rinsing will get rid of the spores (or whhatever.) I can give you more details on bubble algae removal if you need it, just ask.

Also, understock where ever possible to avoid algae problems down the road.

StirCrazy · #9 03-09-2006, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beverly

Also, if you have bubble algae, DO NOT scrub it off. Doing so will break open the bubbles and possibly release spores (or whatever it is that they use to reproduce) into your new system and you will have much worse bubble algae in the new system. No amount of rinsing will get rid of the spores (or whhatever.) I can give you more details on bubble algae removal if you need it, just ask.

Bev, where are you getting this info from? When I was at a meating with Anthony Califo he chuckeled when some one said that at the meating and explained that a bubble algae is a single cell algae and cannot contain spores.. If you have some other info on this I would like to read it..

Steve

Beverly · #10 03-10-2006, 02:47 AM

A quote taken from Reefkeeping Magazine's article "Bubble" Algae: Selected Descriptions, Controls and Comments, by Horge Cortez-Jorge Jr.:

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...ture/index.php

"Much has been said about the danger of liberating spores when popping the vesicles of bubble algae. This is particularly true for members of Order Valoniaceae, but even then, the vesicles are said to be a sporulant risk only when having reached at least a third of their full size. Even if spores escape when you botch the job of vesicle-removal ('vesectomy', anyone?), those escapee spores have to run the gauntlet of herbivorous filter feeders, filtration equipment, and the wild lottery of hitting a good, unoccupied spot to settle and grow. Those spores will eventually be released anyway if you don't remove the vesicles."

The whole article is quite interesting. I use a modified screwdriver method described:

"My weapon of choice ought to be a small stainless-steel flathead screwdriver, sharpened to wicked excess, and used to gouge out the offenders at the anchorage, even including a thin veneer of rock. Bare fingernails can be unreliable for removing certain 'bubble algae', and can invite injury and infection. I have seen small manicuring scissors, carefully bent in a curve, used to snip off vesicles 'at the root' -but this almost surely leaves the anchorage structure intact, and likely ruptures the vesicle."