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#1
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![]() Agreed, some phosphates is good. But i have to run gfo to keep them below .1ppm.
And normally I'd leave it alone, but i'm trying to get nitrate off the floor. As i raise nitrate by feeding fish and corals phosphate is rising way faster. My ideal range would be 1-2ppm nitrate and .05ish phosphate. I know I can't control that, but i'd like to get it close and balanced. Yup skimmer is fixed and pulling some thick stinky crap out again. |
#2
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![]() Sounds like testing issue. Do you use the same vial of water throughout the test? Do you make sure the vial is inserted into the checker in the same direction each time?
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#3
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![]() No, I use one vial for C1 and a seperate vial for C2. I always point the 10mL label forward.
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#4
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![]() I found some better tips from Hanna Instruments here: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1961215
The instructions say to shake for 2 minutes, but on the forum post it sounds like it's not required. I'll try that tomorrow with the same cuvette. I did the test again and got 5ppb (6ppb and hour before that) |
#5
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![]() Yeah use the same vial so the entire test.
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#6
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![]() Matt, did you find this article? The article is regarding elevated nitrate, but does talk about the effects of alkalinity with nitrate and photosynthesis too.
http://www.reefedition.com/nitrate-i...reef-aquarium/ |
#7
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![]() Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Anyway, I'll spend more time with it and wrap my head around it later. Thanks! |
#8
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![]() Hanna doesn't make a checker or photometer that is seawater compatible. The instruments can't "see" through the high TDS of seawater.
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#9
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![]() Quote:
Last edited by Myka; 10-26-2016 at 12:30 PM. |
#10
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![]() Wow I assumed my buddies were using a Hanna guess not I've never invested much into nitrate because mine has always been non existent. I'm very interested in how this works in the long run sounds a lot cheaper then constantly buying rowa. I'm actually using phosphate minus by aquaforest right now and it's pretty week product vs rowa.
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