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#1
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![]() I have seen many versions of ATOs and they all seem to work just fine, I just don't get why people go to this expense for a complicated solution. I simply use float valves off my RO/DI and I wonder why more people don't go this route. You can't add Kalk this way but there are other ways. The idea of constantly refilling a container put me off the ATO path early on.
To elaborate on what I do, it's really pretty simple. I run a float valve in my sump and one in my mixing barrel that are fed directly from my RO/DI. When either my tank or mixing barrel evaporate off enough water, the float valve falls and allows it to refill to the set level. To avoid excessive cycling of my RO/DI, I have it run off an outlet on my controller set to be on for 15 minutes, 4 times a day. This timer is also a bit of a safety factor if something goes wrong. I don't touch a bucket, a tap, or anything to top off either. I can't think of a simpler way and wonder why so many people with RO/DI setups still use an ATO. Am I missing something? I'm a bit of an automation junkie but this isn't too complicated. I'm interested to see what the consensus is. |
#2
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![]() Float valves screw up that's one big reason not to have it set up directly to an endless supply of water. I like my solenoid system dual nc valves and the boost pump hooked up to a wall type count down timer. Total shutdown every time with a very slim chance of failure. Not to mention I have a timer set for the same time that the system is running and I religiously check to make sure that the system is secure before I go to bed its to the point that I can't sleep enless I've checked. Even calling when I'm staying somewhere else for the night.
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#3
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![]() Quote:
I'm having difficulty finding solenoids that are entirely plastic, no metal... |
#4
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![]() autotopoff.com?
__________________
2005 -150 gl. in-wall-sold -a beauty! -sold 2008, 2007 -29 gl. BC -sold 2008, 2008 - Starphire 47gl. cube -sold 02/10, 02/2010 -75gl reef ready -sold 2011 2011-2012 - 8ft custom 150gl. - sold 02/13 - 34gl Solana, Maxspect 120 Razor 16k LED, stock modded skimmer, ATO, and Nitra-Guard Bio-Cubes (Bomb method). - sold 09/13 - Current set-up: 60 gl cube, Maxspect Razor 120 LED 16k, Octopus1000 cone skimmer, Eheim return, Nitra-Guard Bio-Cubes (bomb method) |
#5
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![]() Quote:
The manufacturer of my RO/DI recommends that it run for several hours at a time. Short run times are apparently damaging or at least reduce the lifespan (or maybe effectiveness? I don't remember why exactly) of the membrane. I've had problems with sensors, valves and solenoids sticking either on or off in the 9 years that I've been doing this. By storing a few days worth of purified water in a separate container and pumping it to my main tank I minimize the risk of over diluting my tank. I've known a few people who have overflown their tanks or flooded their homes with either poor design or neglect. My RO/DI unit is 30' from my tank and I was able to run a water line to it so I'm not sure about what the rest of you are talking about.
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"We shall dive down through black abysses... and in that lair of the Deep Ones we shall dwell amidst wonder and glory forever." - H.P. Lovecraft Old 120gal Tank Journal New 225gal Tank Journal May 2010 TOTM The 10th Annual Prince George Reef Tank Tour |
#6
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So many ideas, so little money! |
#7
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it all depends on what your setup will allow. I'm sure most of us would prefer a fish room in the basement with the sump and a mixing station with the display on the main floor but theres a cost/sacrifice associated with these kinds of setups. the guys building new homes around their tanks are able to do this with the least impact to their homes. If i drilled a hole in the floor in my living room my wife would drill a hole in my head. I did try to use a hole that was once used for a cable line but it didnt work (must have been plugged when the basement was finished. all setups are not 100% fool proof. Those timers pooch ALL THE Time. Controllers do weird things during power surges/outages on occasion. Solenoids freeze up as well. |
#8
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#9
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![]() Quote:
I started off with just an elevated freshwater holding tank and a float valve and then upgraded to a used Tunze system that I bought for $50. Fast-forward a few years and my current system is a freshwater holding tank that is automatically topped off twice a week from an RO/DI system by a solenoid controlled by my Apex. Two water level sensors are present in the sump for redundancy to stop the Apex from turning on a maxijet pump ever 30 minutes for one minute. When the water level is low enough that the pump does come on it pushes through an inline kalkwasser reactor (I have chronically low pH due to the Ca Reactor). All of this sounds pretty simple to me but when I try to explain it to a random person looking at my tank I can see that its a little over their heads. Literally and figuratively. The 1/4" line from the RO/DI runs across the exposed floor joists in this houses basement. I also employ two water-on-the-floor sensors that will trigger a text message alarm and shut off several pieces of equipment if something goes amiss.
__________________
"We shall dive down through black abysses... and in that lair of the Deep Ones we shall dwell amidst wonder and glory forever." - H.P. Lovecraft Old 120gal Tank Journal New 225gal Tank Journal May 2010 TOTM The 10th Annual Prince George Reef Tank Tour |
#10
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![]() i just bought the aqua hub ato DIY, it comes with 2 floats switches one for back up, and i must say for 60 bucks it works pretty darn good just throwing it out there
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