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#1
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![]() A person practices due diligence and quarentines a halequin tusk wrasse for six weeks in a very established 33g. He is in there with a clown fish. Both due great together, eat well, pellets and mysis. After the six weeks there are no signs of disease what so ever. I moved him over to his new home last night which is a well established 220g fish only. All fish are very healthy and there is no aggression. This morning he is swimming around, eating mysis and pellets and it looks like the other fish have welcomed him, the problem is he has some ick , is it stess of the move, will it go away, will the others get it, any thoughts?
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#2
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![]() How exactly did you quarantine the fish?
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#3
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![]() Definitely caused by stress. Is it an Aussie or from the Phillipines? The ones from Phillipines are far more prone to disease. I wouldn't worry about it much at all. As long as it continues to eat, then it will be fine. You can also add some garlic puree to the food to help boost its immune system.
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#4
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![]() defiantly stress.
It may subside quite quickly, if you can catch him give him a freshwater dip. Add garlic to food, and add a supplement like ImmunaVital or similar to the whole system. adding a neon goby in the system is always a definite asset also (Did I mention we have a large supply of captive bred neons in stock at all times) ![]() |
#5
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![]() I would just leave him alone, try not to further stress the fish.
I, as with many, believe ICH is always there. This is an ongoing discussion, all of us with our own point of view. I don't worry about quarantining. I purchase my fish only from LFS that do their due diligence in treating, feeding and only letting the fish go for sale, when ready. These stores do exist, and I have only ever lost one fish due to disease. Sorry to hear about your beautiful fish, I think it will be ok.
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#6
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![]() Get a UV light if you don't want to risk all you fish getting it.
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#7
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![]() Regardless whether you believe ich is always there or not, it will more than likely show up in your display tank despite your best efforts. This certainly doesn't mean quarantine procedures are useless but ultimately when you're dealing with something as common as marine ich, which can be introduced without fish, at some point you have a significantly good chance of dealing with it.
My advice is to accept the fact and not attempt to fix it. Leave the fish as is, in a healthy system with healthy unstressed fish ich will not flourish to the point of casualty, rather it will come and go in a fairly harmless manor. A UV sterilizer properly designed and sized for the aquarium is a good investment. While it will not eliminate ich completely and using it all the time is not necessarily beneficial for reef environments using it periodically as needed will help prevent large outbreaks of ich, especially when stresses are potentially high which is typical when new fish are introduced. |
#8
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![]() Quote:
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#9
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![]() IMO, Ich is like the common cold for fish. If you get stressed, you get sick. If you rest up and each well, you get better. I don't think you can completely eliminate ich from your tank. After a mystery disease killed off all my fish a couple of years back, I let the tank sit fallow for 3 months... if there was ich, it should've all been gone by then. I quarantined my new fish for 8 weeks, all signs were good, so I put them in. Bam! Ich. WTF? Seriously? But after a few days it went away.
I'll only attempt a dip if it's getting really bad and not showing any signs of going away on its own. My Coral Beauty get small ich spots from time to time. I don't worry. It goes away in a couple days. IMO, quarantine is more for the nasty stuff like velvet and worms. |
#10
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![]() Quarentined him with about 30 lbs. of live rock, lots of flow and good filteration and did 10% water changes every week, always tested for ammonia and nitrites and there was never an issue
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