DIY t5ho possible build

[spit.fire]

So after cleaning out my stop the other night I found 10 48" sunblaster t5ho sets and started thinking I should build a fixture for my 40g Sps tank as I am kind or getting sick of the metal halides... About 3 days ago I turned off my halides and stuck 3 sunblasters above it and well... My sps has never looked better

I was thinking an aluminum fixture with 6 sunblasters, 2x attinic and 4x 10000k with the different bulbs on different switches


Any thoughts or suggestions?

Also the sunblaster fixtures won't be visible

[tang daddy]

You don't really need an aluminum plate to mount the sunblasters onto, you can mount them onto anything really. I had mine mounted in my wooden canopy. Ofcourse if you want to add reflectors they can definitely help. You also can get away using 4 fixtures, 10 is overkill on a 4og. Another cost effective solution is painting the inside of your canopy white as this reflects the light even more!

[gregzz4]

6 bubs may be enough for your SPS but only the long run will tell. Possibly someone with more experience will chime in.
Hell, 4 might even be enough considering your tank is only 17" tall.

If I had those fixtures...
Instead of paint inside, I'd look into these Sunblaze reflectors, or might try to make these ones work. Be cheaper.
Of course, I'd have at least 3 timers. Maybe even 6. That way there would be a more natural light up and down photoperiod.
But I always go overboard.

Regardless of the canopy you build; you may need a fan in there if it's wood, or at least louvers if it's metal.

Sure will be cheaper annualy over your MH

[imisky]

i would either go for 6-8 bulb fixture with the new sunblaster nanotech reflectors

aluminum is good to go for as the sunblasters ballasts gets hot, its a good way to dissipate the heat from the base for higher efficiency on the ballast as well as longer lifespan. The important part is the individual reflectors, they'll make for overall more efficient fixture. Adding a fan to cool ONLY the cold end of the bulbs (the end with the text/logo) is an important part in using T5s for optimum output and lifespan.