Pax Bellum Chaeto Reactor Knock-Off

[Myka]

So, I have an idea that will probably take me a long time to get it finished, but...

Have you guys heard of the Pax Bellum ARID Filter?

I have a spare quartz UV sleeve laying around that is for an AquaUV 25W sterilizer. I could run a length of LEDs down this sleeve (or maybe some sort of fluorescent tube???) and mount it inside a piece of 6-8" PVC, plumb it like a TLF reactor, and voila!

Thoughts? Suggestions?

[gregzz4]

I like the sleeve idea.
What about using an existing clear reactor and just wrap it in white paper. Easier to see inside with a flip of some scotch tape.

[mike31154]

Your link comes up as a multimeter??

[Myka]

Originally Posted by gregzz4

I like the sleeve idea.
What about using an existing clear reactor and just wrap it in white paper. Easier to see inside with a flip of some scotch tape.

Thanks for the idea, and I was tossing around that idea too, but the tank I want to use it on doesn't have a fish room, so I don't want the light leaking to the sump area because I don't want to be cleaning the skimmer of algae all the time. I'm going to try to design it in a way that it's easy to open and take a peek - I'm thinking a SCH80 union, but I don't know if they come in 6 or 8". Going to see what I can figure out. It looks like I can get an 8" to 3" PVC reducer bushing and then a 3" union. These are pricey part though! Maybe not the best option is the opening is smaller than the reactor diameter.

Originally Posted by mike31154

Your link comes up as a multimeter??

Oops, fixed.

[Myka]

Originally Posted by Myka

I'm going to try to design it in a way that it's easy to open and take a peek - I'm thinking a SCH80 union, but I don't know if they come in 6 or 8". Going to see what I can figure out. It looks like I can get an 8" to 3" PVC reducer bushing and then a 3" union. These are pricey part though! Maybe not the best option is the opening is smaller than the reactor diameter.

Actually, I'm thinking a cap on the end with nylon thumb screws is probably the best option for this large diameter (and a heck of a lot cheap to boot).

Use this for the bottom:


Actually, I could use that for the top too, and then cut a 7" hole in the top of the 8" cap which will give me enough space to drill and tap some holes for the nylon finger screws. Then use a third one and cut the flange off so it's just a flat piece of plastic for the actual lid. Then I'll need to drill it to insert the quartz sleeve, and figure out how to mount that along with the rack for the chaeto. I think I'll use LED because I like the low voltage around water.

[Scythanith]

One of the claim to fames they are talking about is a thermal conductive fluid that is encased within the sleeve that helps pull heat from the LED structure and up to the heat sink at the top.

I have spoke with them about the PB Arid and I almost bought one. The only thing that scared me away was the $600 price tag

[Myka]

I'm not sure there'd be enough heat in there to worry too much, but maybe I'm wrong. Or maybe I'm planning too much flow through.

Are they only $600? I thought they were $800 wholesale. Maybe different sizes.

Mine will cost less than $100. Mayne money well spent, maybe not. Wouldn't be the first $100 I wasted.

[xlzerolx]

I know this is old, but I'm testing out the idea with a TLF 550 reactor. Right now i have RGB leds taped to the outside. I have some warm white strip LEDs on order from amazon to replace these.

If this works out I am planning on using the 20" RO filter housings for this.

[Myka]

Cool! I'm interested to hear how it works for you. I never ended up making the reactor - I just set up a biopellet reactor instead.

[Myka]

Ha! Just featured on Reef Builders...DIY Chaeto Reactor.

https://reefbuilders.com/2016/08/31/...orpha-reactor/