#1
|
|||||
|
|||||
curing dry rock
this is well a recipe for curing dry rock from fijireefrock.com as I have been testing for the last few month with it not to bore you with the different techniques let get started with what I found works as best and shortest timing possible.Please feel free to add or discuss any view for any type of dry rocks curing on this post to help everyone,... Played equally with all the 4 types of dry rock (Pukani,fiji premiun,Tonga shelf and Tonga branch) in different styles of vats. 4 vats containing separatly each type of dry rock 2 vats with mix of all types of dry rock lets talk about the 4 vats 1st all 4 vats where setup in the warehouse with tap water and salinity of 1.24ppm temperature between 82 and 84 degree with couple of power heads for circulation. No water change or skimmer at all.Total darkness with only ambient day light. let it sit for a week and tested for ammonia witch was over 8 believing much higher test readout. XX Over skimmed my reef system from home then added roughly 2 cups of fresh skim-mate to each vat on day 7. Kept checking for tap top off every 4 days and testing ounce a week... On week 3 tested 0 for ammonia witch I thought too early then tested with couple kits and still readout at 0 yes the water had a yellow tinge to it. From that time until now I still feed the rock with fresh ski-mate as I do not want to kill the nytrifying bacteria and still readout at 0. I then decided to bring couple hundred lbs to add to my fully loaded system that contains roughly 500lbs of old live rock. Placed some in the sump and some in the display with no issues going on 3 weeks now and amazingly no algae or diatom outbreak.(my lighting consist of only royal blue spectrum LED with only 2 hours of whites a day. Conclusion 3 weeks in the dark with nothing more that growing nitrifying bacteria and seeded with skimmer bacteria ready for a system. 2 vats curing in my home next to my main system one vat directly plumbed to my sump and the other vat on its own. 1st vat directly to my system Nothing special besides making sure in the dark, the temperature is at 82 degree and one power-head for circulation.Oh yes about 140lbs of mixed dry reef rock in that vat. I kept adding HC-GFO and carbon to my system nothing more. Testing ammonia witch gave a reading of .25 for day 3 to day 6.Every day after that readout of 0 ammonia 3 weeks ago.The rock is ready for main system. Conclusion after I suggest and to be on the safer side 10 days of a ratio of 3lbs live to 1 lb of mix dry frock it is safe to be used on a system. 2nd vat 100 glns sitting near my main system About 100 lbs of mix dry rock in the dark,one power head temperature of 82 degree no skimming salinity of 1.24ppm after 3 day tested ammonia of over 8 as I suspected. I would remove every night remove one gallon of the vat water place it in my system and replace it with water again from my system. Did that for 10 days as on day 8 ammonia readout of 0 kept testing everyday different timing and always got readout of 0. Now I replace 2 gallons of that water with main system water ounce every week and keeping all that rock for my new build Any and all dry rock need cycling time and patience takes a very important role in this as I seen people buy my dry rocks place it in a system and have it cycling with full lights on as it will be loaded with algae and have much longer curing process of ugly green rocks to go through. There are lots of different methods for curing the dry frock but I found the above to be most effective. I don't recommend using any additives to try and speed up the curing process as I always believed the natural way tops all. |
#2
|
|||||
|
|||||
Thanks Eli. So I should cycle in the tubs its in now compared with my tank? Would one not then loose the bacterial colony after removing the rock for a dry build and shape in the main tank? I imagine it needs to go into a tank of water direct from the tubs.
__________________
Doug |
#3
|
|||||
|
|||||
I'll be honest, I rinsed my rocks and dumped them in.
30-40lbs dry rock 100+ existing established rock 230gallon + sump No problems, no breakouts, etc. Mua ha ha. Mind you I have a tiny bioload in the system, only a couple of clowns and a handful of chromis. |
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
I'd be more interested in the phosphate readings after 3 weeks.
I have my Pukani curing with a few pieces of new live rock. The two 30% water changes so far have come out pee yellow. I'm wishing I'd kept a little HOB skimmer for this process. Hopefully my new 150 gallon Concept tank will be here soon and I can move the rock to cure in a larger volume of water. The rock looks fantastic BTW. Can't wait to get aquascaping! |
#5
|
|||||
|
|||||
Good read wish I read this a few years ago
|
#6
|
|||||
|
|||||
Quote:
you could by all means after after curing place it dry and play with the rock for as long as needed till you get the look you need. I am planning to adding the water from the tub to the main system when its time to move the rock. Nitrifying bacteria has a better survival rate out in the open with wet rock than any other pod simply of their size. |
#7
|
|||||
|
|||||
Quote:
__________________
Doug |
#8
|
|||||
|
|||||
Following it exactly, except I had it in fresh mixing for the last couple weeks. Moved it to a large container today. Added salt. Bringing temp up and mixing with two powerheads. Took a pic today also.
I added a bunch of the fiji to my branching , shelf and pukani. That fiji is nice yo. Man I put a few beauties in the tub. Beautiful shape and holes. I think I need a large tank
__________________
Doug |
#9
|
|||||
|
|||||
well get longer tank doug you know the drill
__________________
180 starfire front, LPS, millipora Doesn't matter how much you have been reading until you take the plunge. You don't know as much as you think. |
#10
|
|||||
|
|||||
That is one big reason I upgraded my tank. So I can use there awesome rocks
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|