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#21
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id say off. uv filter doesnt do anything to benefit a digital image.
you're only adding a cheap piece of glass that will degrade the image quality |
#22
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consider using Kenko tubes on your existing lens. It shortens the focal length... ie reduces the minimum focusing distance so you can get your camera closer to the subject. Using these will decrease your f/stops though.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._Tube_Set.html |
#23
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If anyone is interested, I could be convinced to sell my Canon 100mm macro f/2.8 (not IS). It's $650 plus tax when new in stores... my lens is mint, would accept $550 or a trade for a fisheye (Canon 15mm f/2.8 or Tokina Canon mount 10-17mm f/3.5).
I have this macro lens but am also quite happy with the results using kenko tubes on my 50mm f/1.2L or my 70-200mm f/2.8 L w/ IS, hence the 100mm macro is redundant. Last edited by Reef_Geek; 11-27-2012 at 03:16 AM. |
#24
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Get the Tamron 2.8 90mm macro. It's a fantastic lens, great optics and a smidgen cheaper than the 100mm Canon.
It came highly recommended to me and I would recommend it to anyone! Sent from my HTC Incredible S using Tapatalk 2 |
#25
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Sometimes i think lense helps but capture a good photos also requires skill. For example, me, I have the Canon 100mm macro f/2.8 but my photos still come out looks like crap. Kien showed me couple tricks but again I can't produce a great pictures with tripod and all tools. So unless you think you already max out the best shot that your camera can do then any macro lenses will help. Else the macro lenses will just be another piece collecting dust in the draw like mine.
Needs a lot of practice to get a good photo.
__________________
155 gallon bow front |
#26
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Doh! Didn't read a the later posts. Double post
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#27
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Quote:
Try these settings... copied from my post at the thread HOW TO SHOOT PICS http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...t=88871&page=2 "To take these photos, I used Tv mode on the SLR, which means I forced it to use a certain shutter speed and the computer calculates the rest (aperture, auto ISO). Specifically, I used a tripod and forced the shutter to stay open for 1.6 seconds. This meant that the computer would have used the smallest aperture so that the photo wasn't over exposed. Another effect of a small aperture is that the field of depth is wide so most of the subject is in focus. Exact specs are: Shutter 1.6s, aperture f/16, ISO 100, manual focus Equipment: Canon 5D mkII, lens EF 50mm f/1.2 L USM, tripod, 20mm Kinko tube to shorten focal length Editing: shot in RAW, used Canon Digital Professional, increased brightness/contrast/saturation/sharpness, cropped, and exported to 1200 pixel (long side) size Don't fuss the details too much, most important things were the $30 tripod, shutting off the powerhead, and using Tv mode at 1.6 seconds (lots of light from my 250w metal halide in a 20" deep tank, if your light is dimmer, use a longer shutter speed)" |
#28
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just wondering if anyone has experience with the Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x Macro Lens.
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#29
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I've used one and they are tough to control at the best of times, would be really hard for tank shots. The unique thing about them is their minimum focus distance but lack of being able to focus to infinity. That means you can get extremely close to the subject but also means you NEED to be extremely close.
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#30
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I am using a borrowed efs 60mm and like it. Given the opportunity to buy one I would go for a 100mm, although I am shooting on a 40D and so am not full frame. That 100mm IS would be a nice addition to my camera bag
Dan
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Link to my Tank Upgrade Thread Dan Leus, Marine Biologist 20+ Years Marine Aquarium Experience Save the Reef, Buy a Frag! |
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