Reef Temp

[lastlight]

To avoid my ceiling temp from going too high I allow the tank to cool down by morning to 78. It still hits 82 before the halides turn off. It takes until early morning when I get up for it to cool back down to 78. A big swing compared to most but I refuse to run a chiller anymore.

Brad's sick of the LED electrical savings already! Buying a heater now?

Do you recall what your system's total draw was over 24 hrs before with halides? I'd be curious what it will be with a few hundred watts of heating and the LEDs.

[gregzz4]

Originally Posted by gregzz4

I've been running my tanks @ 80 due to Ron S info
I am starting to trust in the thoughts of the higher temps .....
Not just based on fishes but the metabolism of corals

And with that said, around June 10th I dropped my tanks to 79F
One reason is it will, over the year, be cheaper when I math out the heaters and chiller operation. This is due to my house's poor insulation
Another is the oxygen level
Yet another is my ability to spot things that are going wrong before they get out of hand

I don't mind if the corals grow a little slower, plus, maybe some of the other critters may live a little longer and need less food

just a thought

[Madmak]

Originally Posted by lastlight

Do you recall what your system's total draw was over 24 hrs before with halides? I'd be curious what it will be with a few hundred watts of heating and the LEDs.

Interesting question. You don't see the LED manufacturers talking about this much do you?

[subman]

I have increased mine from 78 to 80 as well. Just to see how the corals react. I am really curious to see how it makes a difference as the temperature in the ocean decreases dramatically with depth (I remember being frozen after a couple deep scuba dives and swimming on the surface to warm up).

Im hoping the ones closer to the surface were growing faster not only because of the the increase in light but also warmer temps.

The test will start today lol

[SteveConn]

With the warmer weather my tank maxes out @ 80.5F (low of 79.5F before heater kicks in)

Anyone else see changes in tank growth?

[Aquattro]

Originally Posted by SteveConn

Anyone else see changes in tank growth?

Yes. At the beginning of this thread, I decided to try raising my temp to 79. Since then I've noticed increased growth on my SPS.

[paddyob]

I prefer 78. Seems everything is happy at that temperature.

Mine hit 89 this week. No air conditioner... Until today... And the tank cooked. Have a couple corals dying. An acan and some SPS.... Including my amazing purple birdsnest. Sad week. Tank moves down stairs by next summer.

[Madmak]

Temperature swings are bad but higher temps shouldn't really kill anything that isn't a deep water or temperate species.
Most reefs/dives I've been on the temps are 84 to 86F and things are living and thriving.

Like I said before, I follow Ron's logic with respect to matching the natural reef parameters. It is what evolution has prepared the animals for I hope.

[Aquattro]

Temp swings suck, but they happen, and most healthy corals should handle it. I went a long time one summer bouncing from 80 to 90 daily, and only lost one species of acro (8 frags of it). Everything else was fine, although perhaps a bit more brown..

[RuGlu6]

24.5C 25.5C (78) here
http://www.wbuf.noaa.gov/tempfc.htm
Heater is my controller and water tubing coil cooled with cold tap water is my chiller.
I run a 1/4 inch OD tube from my RO/DI inlet to the sump, and back to the P-trap, with straight valve slightly open to the fast drip.
There is a 15 feet tube coil in the sump acts as a heat exchanger/cooler.
Back to the RO/DI waste line and in to the drain. water cost for a few short Summer month in Vancouver where it rains 9 month out of 12 is nothing compare to the cost of the controller and chiller and electricity to run the chiller.


Cut water supply line to RO/DI and insert the 1/4" OD line in with straight line valve for flow control.

.
Run the tube line to you sump and make a coil that will act as a heat exchanger

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Run the tube line back to the RO/DI waiste line and or back to the P trap

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You summer chiller is on line !
If water will get below set your heater will kick in.