280g Inwall

[Snappy]

Yeah Tony!!! Look at you go. Things are really shaping up over there and looking good. Won't be long before you're up and running. Call me whenever you need a hand.

[J.Lloy]

What where you planning on for return flow? Is there a link for info on Herbie overflow, I hadn't heard of one till just a few days ago?

[Pan]

Originally Posted by J.Lloy

What where you planning on for return flow? Is there a link for info on Herbie overflow, I hadn't heard of one till just a few days ago?

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...hreadid=344892

[Delphinus]

@Greg - Thanks!! I'm started to get excited, it's starting to look like a tank!!

@ J.Llow - I have a Sequence Dart lined up for sump return duty. It might be a bit overkill but so I'll probably dial it back with a gate valve or a ball valve until I can get a frag tank/refugium online (in which case I'll T off of it). Or, if it looks like the tank can handle the pump at full bore, I'll do that. If you valve a pump back it actually consumes less electricity, so that's kind of a neat trick. More head pressure seems like it should be more work, but it means the impeller turns less fast and consumption is based on motor speed instead of motor load.

A Herbie overflow is one where you have two drains in your overflow. One is an emergency backup, one is the "main drain." The main drain you throttle back with a valve so that the water drains at the same speed as the sump return. The end of the pipe is submerged in the sump, so there's no splashing. No air gets into the drain, and thus this eliminates microbubbles. Plus, it's nice and quiet.

The downside is that it's risky to have a valve on an overflow, if a snail or something gets in there, it could block the overflow. Hence, the emergency backup pipe. If for some reason water slows down in the main drain, the emergency backup pipe takes over.

Here's a link with more info - http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...hreadid=344892

[Delphinus]

Dude! You beat me to it again!

[MitchM]

Originally Posted by Delphinus

... Nevertheless I can put some more studs in place as you describe. ...

It doesn't need more studs (the vertical pieces that make up the wall), the wall should be shorter in height (the thickness of the top plate - 1-1/2"), blocks placed between the 2 joists above then the wall top plate screwed up into those blocks.

With the structure of the wall beneath those blocks, it will act as a support for the joists, and the added support will reduce the flex of nearby joists.

Mitch

[Joe Reefer]

Wow Tony things are coming along. Looks good.

[Delphinus]

Ok guess I'm getting messed on terminology. I didn't mean vertical studs, I meant the blocks you were talking about. I still don't see that as fixing the problem with the bulkhead though because the door wall is within 4 feet against an exterior wall (ie., a spot where minimal flexing is anticipated), whereas the bulkhead corner is at least two joists away and within a couple of feet of the centre of the joist (ie., a spot where maximum flexing is anticipated). The more I read about sister joists however, and couple that with some cross-bracing, makes me think that there is merit in at least trying that before undoing all my framing ...

[danny zubot]

It worked! (inside joke)

Tagging along.

[untamed]

Interesting...the wall above my tank is just a 2x2 frame. I may just have gotten lucky as I've not seen any flexing from people walking directly above the tank.