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  #11  
Old 09-07-2012, 04:24 AM
ScubaSteve ScubaSteve is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nerdz View Post



















Just a quick test with ring saw... I will use a guide for bettter cut. I also have a diamond grinder to smooth edge after ringsaw.
Looks about right. Use lots of cooling to avoid overheating the glass and cracking it. Cut at a moderate pace but take breaks if you can to avoid overheating.

When. You say 0.25" weir height, you are referring to The water layer thickness over the weir, correct?
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  #12  
Old 09-07-2012, 04:51 AM
nerdz nerdz is offline
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"You say 0.25" weir height, you are referring to The water layer thickness over the weir, correct?"

Thats right, so my 1" notch in tank will result in a waterline of 1" -.25",(actually less then .25" at my flowrate...), so .75" down from top edge.

Ya, it doesn't get warm and I'l flood it with water. The saw is intended to be used like a bandsaw. Flat glass is slid on its table into the blade. I took it apart so I can use it on my already assembled tank. It'll be like a skil-saw!

Normally its feeds water from the bottom of the table, but in its Franken-state, I'll use a garden hose.

Cheers
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  #13  
Old 09-09-2012, 12:00 AM
nerdz nerdz is offline
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Well, notched tank for overflow... Went pretty well/fast.


Now for return line. Need a diamond bit to drill for .5" bulkhead. 1 or 2 returns? I'm thinking 1.


I painted the back of my last tank, what can I do to hide overflow box and stand pipes? Ideas would be appreciated!

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  #14  
Old 09-09-2012, 04:26 AM
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toytech toytech is offline
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nice job , i just did this yesterday with a dremel , way easier than it looks. Got to love external overflows such a clean look .
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