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#1
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![]() Hi all,
Picked up a very nice blonde Naso tang today. Before the tang police attack, there is a game plan behind this! He is only 3" and I'm hoping to be able to keep him in my 140G for a year or so. After that I have a friend with a 220G that agreed to take him over once size became an issue. At the store I saw him eat pellets and nori. No signs of any issue what so ever. Once bagged I had a 2hr drive. When I got home he already showed signs of stress with white dots on his sides. I have a 20G QT setup with 1.025 salinity. The store water is 1.024. I'm drip acclimating him now. I plan on hyposalinity treatment over the next 48hrs. Do you recommend a full 4wk QT? My Qt tank is in my "fish room" where my sump is located. I have a light over the fuge that comes on for 8hrs a night and lights up the room a far amount. Is this enough light for the QT or do I need to set something else up? Where do I get garlic to soak his food in ? Any suggestions would be appreciated Thanks |
#2
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![]() Quote:
Soak the nori in the garlic. Feed often. Feed only garlic soaked food. The idea is to get as much garlic in him as possible. |
#3
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![]() Will my lighting be ok ?
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#4
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![]() I do not think so. The best is to do the garlic regimen, observe the fish carefully and transfer it to your main tank as soon as you feel it is ok.
Continue the garlic regimen in the main tank. When you have a chance get some brown algae which naso's prefer. |
#5
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![]() I use fresh garlic, crushed on the nori to soak up all the oil. As for QT, my personal opinion is this can often cause additional stress for a fish already stressed. Any new Tang I get goes directly into my tank to give it as close to a natural environment as possible. The only tang I've lost was a powder blue that wasn't eating, and it never started.
I just added a new PB last week (known to be eating) and it's doing great. No ich, no stress and lots of eating.
__________________
Brad |
#6
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![]() If your QT is cycled, light isn't an issue at all. The key is water quality in the tank. You can only be certain that your fish is ick free if you're willing to do a 6 week treatment. Which means you'll need to water your saltinity on a regular basis OR make sure you have an ATO setup with your QT.
Now my question is what do you have in your main display tank and are you willing to risk a wipe out of your display tank if ick breaks loose in there. Some people never QT and they never had trouble. I've also heard about people who put a new fish in their display and it wipe out all their fish and starting all over again. I QT all my fish for a 6 weeks period and I am not dropping any fish in my display without quarantine regardless of what they are. If they don't make it through the QT, it's still better than killing my other 10+ fish which I spent over a year adding through QT. You'll have a much higher successful rate if your QT is fully cycled. I treat the fish with both prazipro and cupramine during this 6 week period and making sure the fish is eating well and fat before I drop them into my display. Steven |
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