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#1
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![]() Doesn't make sense either. Graphs I've looked at show red being at 1000-2000k
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#2
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![]() You can't really compare Nm to kelvin. Red is from 650-700nm but that doesn’t correlate to a Kelvin tempter. A lower Kelvin light will have more red in its spectrum but that doesn't mean the bulb is going to look red. Just like a 10,000k bulb has a lot of green light, it doesn’t mean the bulb looks green. A 2,700k bulb will have a warm oranage-ish yellow hue almost like a candle light, while a 20,000k barely has any red spectrum in it and is predominantly blue. Most mid range bulbs have spikes in different spectrums which makes the color look white because of the way they blend. (6,500k – 14,000k)
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#3
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![]() Hmm interesting. I looked into it further with respect to fluorescent lamps in particular and it turns out to be quite a bit more complicated to determine actual correlated colour temperature (CCT). They use CCT to distinguish between actual CT since our lamps aren't actually radiating at that temperature.
You can use Wien's Law to find the peak of the blackbody spectrum which that of the lamp resembles but the lamp's spectral distribution (intensity per unit wavelength) will be different, due to the phosphors. Nevertheless, it still produces light that looks similar to our eyes, which "add" colours. That's why a low CCT lamp may appear white-"ish" but have a peak in the red - the other colours are playing a part when we observe them altogether. Bah, sorry if this is way off topic or anything. Hope this clears things up somewhat. Graeme |
#4
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![]() Is it shift in temperature, 14K to 10K, don't see a problem as lots start with 10K bulbs, or they basically stay at 14K but with just a increased narrow spike at a lower wavelength.
(or just a conspiracy by the manufactures and supplier to replace our bulbs)
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my tank |
#5
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![]() No significant correlation between bulb age (or spectrum) and algae growth in my experience. Water quality (nutrient levels) dictates algae growth, not quantity or spectrum of light.
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#6
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![]() If everything else is in order, the bulb age and spectrum will have no effect on algae. On a tank that already has an algae issue a change in bulbs and/or spectrum can really help. On a tank on the brink of an algae bloom aging bulbs can be the straw that broke the camel's back.
My tank is a very good example right now. One of my 20K halides burned out. I only have 10K as spares. So my reef has a 10K on the left side (with 6 months use on it) and a 20K on the right side (with 14 months use on it). On the left side a minor dusting of diatoms shows up in late afternoon under the 10K bulb, but not on the right under the 20K bulb. Also, you can see a difference that there is more to scrape off the front glass on the left than the right. |
#7
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![]() The shift in spectrum isn't the issue with old bulbs, it's the major drop in par. Its on average about a 30% drop in par after 6 months and sometimes a 50% drop after a year. This happens with t5's or halides. This isn't a debatable issue. There is a lot of data on the decrease in par so its a fact and not a conspiracy. I would not suggest running any type of bulb for longer then a year unless you are doing a fowlr tank. I change my t5's at about 9-10 months.
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#8
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![]() Quote:
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#9
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![]() My numbers are close to right on, but it does change depending on the type of bulb and cooling of the bulbs. Just check reef central there are numerous threads on par decrease over time. I guarantee you my numbers are on par with what everyone has been testing and coming up with.
I didn’t make any mention of how par effects algae growth. My comment was directed to the people who said there was no need to change their bulbs unless they burn out. I already address effects color spectrum has on algae growth in my previous posts. |
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