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#11
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![]() So far I have:
Stand, Tank, -Light (not sure of the brand name, but it meets the requirement for corals), Salt (Instant Ocean), Thermometer, Heater, Protein Skimmer (but it was really cheap $60.00), Hydrometer (I think that is what it is called - to measure the salt in the water), test kits. I was also planning on getting a power filter (the 110) and a power head. This should give me enough flow for the corals. Am I missing anything? Thanks for the tips re: sand, I think I have decided to use sand in the bottom. Is it necessary to use “live sand” or can I just use regular sand. Isn’t the live rock enough? Thanks for all you help! |
#12
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![]() I would recommend reading and not taking all advice given from us amatures.
![]() I know for a fact that: Quote:
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__________________
THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#13
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![]() Quote:
Need to know what type of bulb(s) it is, the watts, and the color termperature |
#14
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![]() I think it's on another thread, but get a good book like "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Bob Fenner to learn some of the things to do & why you should do them. This would give you a good foundation of knowledge that you can then add to by asking specific questions to specific problems or areas of interest.
BTW, I think the denitrification the original poster was talking about is the one performed by anaerobic nitrate-consuming bacteria, as opposed to the ones that consume ammonia/nitrite. It's the premise behind deep sand-beds. Personally, I'm not a big fan of deep sand beds, but I still like the look of a shallow layer of sand on the bottom. Anthony Last edited by SeaHorse_Fanatic; 04-20-2006 at 07:38 PM. |
#15
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![]() Sarina,
Like mentioned above, take all these "expert" opinions with a grain of salt because you'll find if you go on tank tours that there are many different ways to set up & run a reef tank and many of the methods are polar opposites. When we did our first one here on the coast, we saw tanks that were KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) to full-blown high tech with auto-top-offs, plumbing behind false walls & huge skimmers & sumps. What we learned is that there is NO one way to do it. Personally, I have gone from total KISS to having overflow boxes plumbed to large sumps with powerful skimmers & UV sterilizers, and lit with MH & PC actinics & LED moonlights. A lot will depend on your budget & time & willingness to learn or do the work necessary to keep up with your reef tank. Enjoy this time and be an info-sponge. Good luck. Anthony |
#16
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![]() Quote:
I would say take the opinions for what they are, OPINIONS. To me its all about sharing opinions and experiences. Definition of opinion: Quote:
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#17
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![]() Here's what my light says:
JEBO R24 (610mm) 55Wx2 AC120 V 60 HZ Hopefully you can understand what that means. Is that a good light? I paid $100.00 for it. What corals would you recommend for beginners? |
#18
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![]() Jebo is a cheap brand name light, not worth $100 IMO, but hey its what you have so its a start. FYI, it is 110watts total, so over a 28g that will keep soft corals.
Good starter corals would be: Mushrooms Zooanthids Colt Xenia Star polyps Kenya tree Toadstools Leathers |
#19
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![]() Quote:
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Given sufficient thrust pigs will fly just fine. 90 Gallon LPS tank - Challice, Acans, Favia, Diplo and Zoos 125 Gallon SPS Coming Soon! |
#20
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![]() Actinics will still help corals grow, maybe not as much as 10K lighting though.
I would stick with soft corals until you upgrade your lights. (if you want to keep LPS, SPS, clams, anemones, etc) |
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