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#1
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Hypo can work. What you're probably remembering is that there are numerous localities/subspecies (I forget which) of Ich that all have varying degrees of resistance to changes in salinity. So hypo might work on some ich outbreaks but not other. Best to go with copper as you've previously stated.
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#2
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Hypo definitely does work. I have used it many, many times in my QT with 100% success rate. The key is to take it down to 1.009 and keep it there for at least 4 weeks. Also you need an ongoing QT set up ready to go with a canister filter (or similar sponge filter) to ensure you have a mature nitrogen cycle. Otherwise you will be battling ammonia and pH swings, and mostly likely not successful. It is not something you can set up and use at the last minute.
The biggest downside to hypo is that it is a lengthy process. The total process usually takes 2 to 3 months for me (taking it down and then slowly bringing it back up again). I also do a Prazipro treatment in QT. But the important thing is to use QT as a preventative with all new fish. Pretty hard to catch your fish in the DT, and they will indeed be highly stressed with a move at that time. Plus your DT is now infected anyway, and likely more fish will get ich. Another method (besides copper which I don't like) that I have heard works well, is the tank transfer method. Only takes 9 days to complete. Might try that myself one of these times instead of hypo.
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
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#3
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When I do hypo I actually use live rock as the filter I keep a couple extra pieces in my sump just for this reason alone I swap out the pieces every 3 to 7 days I also place a powerhead at the bottom of the tank and a airline to it so that it will pull in oxygen There are a few species of fish but do not tolerate hypo
I do eight eight to ten week treatment at 1,009 and keep up with weekly water changes I feed on a regular schedule as well
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#4
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Quote:
http://atj.net.au/marineaquaria/3daytransfer.html And here is a recent thread discussing QT practices and this method, and where I learned more about it. http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...ght=quarantine
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
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#5
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I bought a fox face that looked good to go but a couple days later I started seeing ick on it and my uv light did a great job getting rid of it I also put garlic guard on my plankton before I feed every day so my fish r all secreting garlic out of them at all times I have 55 fish in my 200 gal mixed reef that has been running since 2008 and I have never seen a sick fish since the uv light was installed so my thoughts r to quarantine the clown if possible and treat as the others say or sad to say flush him. I strongly recommend purchasing a uv sterilizer light before buying fish and also check the fish out really good before buying and putting in with your other fish. I know this fix may not help your clown but will help you in your future reefing
Cheers,ryan |
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#6
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Looks like ich to me....not the expert by any means though.What has worked like a million bux for me, was hyposalinity. All natural. No chemicals, less risk, fewer long term effects. Anything I have read up on this all leads to "there is no quick fix" Not to mention your display will HAVE to run fallow (no host) for a minimum of 4 weeks anyhow, 6 on safe side unless u wanna kill everything in ur tank with copper and just run fish only forever... Follow directions TO THE LETTER and seeing as the little guy has been hit fairly hard, drop salinity very slowly. Lower saline actually reduces stress on fish (to a certain point at about 1.08)
My tw bits for what its worth....
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Cheers Gary 604-319-0317 |
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#7
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Already got copper med and cu test....damn these are expensive.
Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
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BIOCUBE 29 |
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#8
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Yup both clowns passed away... probably not going to get livestock for a bit. Now how can I tell if DT is free from ich? Or how can I clear the ich problem. The corals survived. And inverts.
Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
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BIOCUBE 29 |
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#9
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If the tank is fishless now is the ideal time to let it stay hat way to make sure the ich is gone and look into doing a quarantine tank for new arriving fish it's also a good time to start focusing on doing corals and inverts more while the fallow period Is happening
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#10
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Quote:
Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
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BIOCUBE 29 |
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