1- So many variables with LEDs. You have to look at the manufacturer's recommendation, and the experiences of people with the same light. You want to grow "seaweed"? Most of my efforts are spent trying to keep algae out of the display.
2- I do 10% weekly to keep the elements balanced in the water. You should do more or less depending on the health of the tanks inhabitants. Observation is the key.
3- Automate everything you can. A simple softy tank should only require an auto feeder.
4- Tank startup is the most important step in a marine aquarium. What you do here will determine whether you will still be doing this in two years. Since you've been researching you've probably heard this a few times already, but I'll say it again just in case: patience = success!
I would use all live rock, and choose wisely, it is the core of your system. With poor quality live rock, nutrient control will always be a battle, and this hobby won't be fun at all.
Putting anything in a brand new system in 30 days is likely going to go work against the patience = success thing. This is what I would do, but you probably won't because you haven't yet had to deal with some of the nasty algaes that can come on live rock. I would aqua-scape the tank and get it running with your well chosen live rock, and leave the lights off for 6 weeks. You'll also want to keep as much ambient light out as possible. There will be enough die off in the rock to fuel the cycle, and in this time most of the algaes will die off. Now you're ready to turn on the lights and add a fish. Zoanthids can be added when your tests for nitrates and phosphates read an acceptable level to support their survival.
5- With LEDs, if you need more than a fan blowing across the surface of the water to cool it you should look at the pumps etc to find where all the excess heat is coming from.
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01-06-2016, 04:56 PM
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