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  #1  
Old 11-05-2001, 09:09 PM
gboots gboots is offline
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Default Live Rock and Lights

Just wondering how long live lock noermally takes to cure [img]images/smiles/icon_confused.gif[/img] I've got 50 lbs in a 33gal. The lights stay off ecept to look for critters and move rock.

Also, will I be able to grow lps and sps corals with the lights I have. 192 watts pc. 10000k and actinic [img]images/smiles/icon_confused.gif[/img]

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 11-05-2001, 09:43 PM
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SuperFudge SuperFudge is offline
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It usually takes about 17 days for me Glen.

Ive had some take upto 20 days,but in between there is a good guess.

I agree with leaving the lights off during the curing process,but this will not spare you the diatom bloom...thatll still come soon after the nitrites are all gone.

Dont be alarmed at this point,this bloom resides aswell after another week or two.

To be honest,the wattage actually matters little when comparing lighting scenarios...such as Flourescent,to a M/H of the same wattage.
So to judge correct wattage for certain corals is difficult at best.(IMO [img]images/smiles/icon_wink.gif[/img])
LPS would most likely do well under that lighting provided all other params are met.

I would guess some of the hardier SPS would do alright also,such as montipora...placed at the highest points of your l/r structure.
But i doubt you would get the intense coloration and max growth on most species of Acropora.

Also,any SPS or LPS would have a much greater chance of doing well after your system has aged sometime.

Keep us updated [img]images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img],Marc.

[ 05 November 2001: Message edited by: Fudge ]
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Old 11-05-2001, 09:43 PM
reefboy22 reefboy22 is offline
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Default Live Rock and Lights

i say about a month and i would get a mh corals love it cheap and lots of light u can hae some lps but i wouldnt go for any sps let me know if u wana buy anything i got lots for sale
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Old 11-05-2001, 11:10 PM
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Hey Joshua
What kinds of corals do you have for sale??

Christy [img]images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]
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Old 11-06-2001, 12:44 AM
reefburnaby reefburnaby is offline
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Hello,

Another way is to measure ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. You'll notice that ammonia will spike first, then nitrite...then nitrate. Eventually, all three will converge to zero. When all three are zero, then the lr is cured.

Since the "liveness" of live rock comes in many flavours, it is difficult to tell how long your tank+rock will take to cure. It might be as quick as a day or three months (mine took three months, but it was really really bad lr @$2 a pound...).

As for your lighting...don't know. Try comparing your tank to other reefers and to good LFS tanks. What types of LPS or SPS would you like to keep ?

Joshua, I heard that you are trying to sell some soft corals. Do you still have any left ?

- Victor.

[ 05 November 2001: Message edited by: reefburnaby ]
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Old 11-06-2001, 05:12 PM
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One thing i cant quite figure out yet...

Wether it be 1500 lbs or 300 lbs,the time to build sufficient bacteria to cycle either completely is within days of one other.

That means bacteria build at 5 times the rate??

If thats true,that means the amount of die off nor quantity influences cycling time ??

I know bacteria builds on a logorythmic base...would that be an influence?

Anybody a bio major???

I dunno,thinking out loud again,Marc. [img]images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]

[ 06 November 2001: Message edited by: Fudge ]
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Old 11-06-2001, 06:13 PM
BCReefer BCReefer is offline
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Would having a 175W 5500 MH and 2 actinic be enough to have LPS and SPS?
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Old 11-06-2001, 06:34 PM
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Yes bacteria builds on a logarithmic base by pretty much splitting in two. That means that every reproduction cycle your population doubles (or 2 to the nth power). So technically the more live rock you start with (assuming live rock has a stable bacterial population) the larger your base population to work with. But you have to remember that your rock may be out of water for awhile, may experience change in salinity when you put it in your tank (this is a baddie for bacteria, pops the little buggers) and generally a change in water environment when you put it into its new home (or temporary home, especially if it is completely new). And if the home is too new, there may be a lag time before the bacteria start to reproduce if they have been damaged or if the population has been reduced. Environment plays a huge part of whether your tank is going to cycle. As well, as Victor says, not all live rock comes with a bustling bacterial population ready to do business. Also the optimum growth rate of the two bacteria responsible for the breakdown of ammonia and nitrite is found at a much higher temperature (86-95F) than most reef tanks are found at.
Basically what I’m saying is that more live rock in a tank is good but sometimes that isn’t just it. Some people can cycle their tanks in a short time and others take awhile. I don’t think there is really any trick to it other than actually inoculating your tank with those nutrients that the bacteria are there to reduce (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate). This is why the nitrogen cycle works in stages (ammonia spike, nitrite spike and nitrate spike). The levels of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate increase because there are no bacteria there to reduce them. The reason for the dropoff in the levels is because the bacteria have finally increased their population enough to handle that level of nutrients. This then causes the next stage of the cycle to continue. Of course the nutrient levels aren’t maintained at the spiking levels so the bacterial population dies off a bit to the point where it is stable with the levels of nutrients produced which is why you may see another cycle when you add more live rock or too much livestock at once.

Whew! I hope I didn't overdo it [img]images/smiles/icon_razz.gif[/img]

Christy
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  #9  
Old 11-06-2001, 07:33 PM
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Cool,thanx Christy [img]images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img].

Marc.
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  #10  
Old 11-06-2001, 10:22 PM
reefburnaby reefburnaby is offline
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Hello BCReefer,

That's 175W 5500K + some actinics over a 33 gal (or something that is 3 ft long) right ?

I would say yes if they are place correctly in the tank.

Since the cost between a 175W and a 250W is not very big (maybe $30 to $50), I would go with the 250W. Something like a Iwasaki 250W would be good (has high lumen and PAR). I know, the power bill is going to be a bit different (30% more for 250W). Its equivalent to turning on 3 100W light bulbs (the 250W) and approx. 2 100W light bulbs for the 175W.

- Victor.
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