Scott's 270g aka Project Mayhem

[Snappy]

Originally Posted by sphelps

Is this not it?


http://www.coralmaster.com/coralview...a24be94b319d21

Nope - Can often be hard to tell with pictures but the corallite structure is not the same at all.

[Scythanith]

I recently used the PAR meter to measure the difference between all mitras and Mitras plus T5. There is a larger difference than I anticipated. The mitras alone produced mid 200 PAR 6" under the water surface while adding the T5's boosted that number to ~400+. The biggest difference was a mid to lower depths. I noticed double the PAR with the addition of the T5's. I am using all superblues and the golds have a lot more "pop" now

[lastlight]

what overall power % is the fixture at and what about the individual channels to be reading 200?

i ask because my tank seems to prefer (i think) my red channels both turned entirely off and the whites drastically reduced. i keep thinking about toying with the idea of adding some t5 but with an open top there's no way to make that look pleasing.

[Scythanith]

Originally Posted by lastlight

what overall power % is the fixture at and what about the individual channels to be reading 200?

i ask because my tank seems to prefer (i think) my red channels both turned entirely off and the whites drastically reduced. i keep thinking about toying with the idea of adding some t5 but with an open top there's no way to make that look pleasing.

I'd have to go and look but I am pretty sure I am sitting around 70% total power output on high efficiency mode. The curves themselves are obviously variable throughout the day. I run some of every channel, but definitely on the low end (~25%-10%) for reds, warm whites, yellow. The cool white, blues, hyperviolet, etc all run up to around 80% at max.

I didn't add the T5's due to a lack of PAR, I added them for covering the shady areas the mitras seem to produce. I was just surprise at the actual increase in PAR and how the increase isn't linear in the tank. The lights are mounted at the front and back of the tank though, not through the middle like the mitras, so I suppose I should see a greater effect front and back.

[Scythanith]

For those that don't know how Mitas light levels work here is a quick breakdown.

First off you set the Mitras unit in either high efficiency or high output mode. I think high efficiency is 70% of what the total unit output is.

Secondly, you set a total output in that setting. I think mine is at 70 or 80%.

Thirdly, you set the total power output of each of the 9 led channels and the times which they turn on and off.

So essentially you set a percentage of a percentage of a percentage.

[reeferfulton]

wow so you are running the mitras pretty dialed back then eh . And your at 9.5 inch above water line.

Well this could explain my bleached out colors lol .. my pink and white red planet..

I have been running 5" above water . 100% high output. With white at bl , rb and white all at 100% . thats way above your settings..

time for me to dial back

thanks !

[Scythanith]

Everyones setups are different. Don't drastically alter yours or it could have an even more adverse effect for your corals. It would be interesting to see what kind of PAR numbers you're getting with that configuration though!

Also I started my coral placement when I was a little more naive to the requirements of some SPS versus others. I knew there was a difference between most montipora and acropora but still put my montis at mid level or higher in the tank. That prevented me from cranking my lights too much higher, as the montis began to suffer if I did. Now that I have purged the montis I plan to raise the overall intensity somewhat.