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#1
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![]() Quote:
Dangnabit. I basically drove right past there on my way to Home Depot. |
#2
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![]() Gfo is like any other product, the amount you "need" to keep phosphate levels at a certain set point won't ever be determined by tank volume.
It will be determined by the rate of addition of phosphate. You could have 10000 gallon tank with three fish and brand new ceramic rock, and you'll probably need less gfo to keep phosphate at "reef" levels than a 300 gallon tank with 40 fish and 7 year old rock. Whether "less" means smaller volumes changed more often, or huge quantities changed every 3 months, the amount you need is dependent on the amount you use. Just like carbonate or calcium. Gfo can certainly reduce phosphate levels. My... Question (I guess?) is whether gfo can reduce phosphate levels to the point where the extra iron, in some cases, doesn't negate that benefit. |
#3
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![]() Foz Down alone can remove phosphates to the point(150ppbillion) where it is not reliably tested by most electronic meters, meaning the meter's margin of error is greater than the phosphate level. With Foz Down there is no need to use GFO and suffer with the other issues that GFO and reactors bring along.
Wai's should have 10 micron 4" diameter filter socks.
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www.oceanfreshaquarium.com/foz-down.html - Foz Down - an easy way to eliminate algae outbreaks caused by Phosphate and bring back the fun of reef keeping. |
#4
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#5
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![]() They are the 10 micron socks at Wai's.
They're the same ones I got from Tim.
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Mitch |
#6
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![]() I got the smaller micron socks. Had to put it inside a larger square sock as my square holders are just the tiniest too big for them.
Next step that's frustrating me is this freaking Hanna LR phosphate test kit. It's been months since I bothered testing for phosphate because of this issue. Test 1: 33 ppb P (about 0.1 ppm po4). After a water change a 1ml dose of phozdown (probably to small to do much in my size tank), test again. 44ppb P. Do a dummy test with pure distiller water... 22ppb. Glass vials are notorious for adsorbing small amounts of phosphate. In high end labs, they wash the glassware they use to run phosphate tests in hydrochloric acid regularly to remove it. The last time I was regular testing P, my "level" was predicted by how many tests I'd done, not what was actually in the tank. Anyway I just acid washed and and dummy tested my vials again and I'm down to 16ppb with distiller water, which might be the actual amount in the water jug I bought from Safeway, but it still makes it hard to trust the test. |
#7
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![]() Quote:
That red slime isn't just cyano, it's an entire self contained microscopic ecosystem. Quote:
Cyano is also likely uniquely adapted to using the kind of iron found in GFO compared to all the other organisms in your tank. They emit organic molecules called siderophores that specifically react with inorganic, oxidized forms of iron and turn it in to something they can easily absorb. This makes then capable of living in iron limited environments. It makes them excellent at living in iron rich environments. Quote:
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If you have high phosphate in the water and no cyano growing either: 1. You don't have cyano present 2. Something is effectively predating the cyano Or 3. Some other nutrient or environmental condition is limiting its growth. Quote:
Given how little P it needs relative to N and C, and how good it is at scavenging it from low P environments, and that (as you mentioned) cyanobacteria can use forms of phosphate not readily scrubbed by GFO, it's far more likely that no reactor you could buy has the adsorbing capacity to reduce phosphorous levels in your tank to the point where it would be limiting to Cyanobacteria. All your corals would die if you did. In the rocks or otherwise. What you are supplying, however, is large quantities of an atom that is differentially vital to Cyanobacteria for survival; that isn't regularly dosed by most people; is found only in trace amounts in foods and most salt mixes; and is in a form that organisms other than cyanobacteria will probably have a hard time using. Quote:
It's not that they're not responsive to low iron/low phosphate environments. It's that they're adapted to surviving in them. Take an organism adapted to surviving in an environment where some critical nutrient is limited and provide that nutrient in excess, you get steroid-like growth. |
#8
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![]() I'm curious how you have come to the conclusion that the cyano in our tank is likely Oscillatoria? Is that your own ID from your microscope or are you reading this in your research?
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I think the ideas are interesting, but I also think there is more to it. I don't think it is as simple as adding iron via GFO. There are too many instances in my mind where cyanobacteria have popped up and it would be tough to blame it on iron. It makes me think about what the cause may be in those instances. Since cyanobacteria are such amazing critters I imagine there are many situations that could cause the growth. I'm also sure I've seen at least a dozen different species of cyanobacteria in saltwater systems. I like this discussion though. It is discussions like these that get us thinking in new ways and solve old problems with new ideas. ![]() Last edited by Myka; 10-06-2014 at 08:20 PM. |
#9
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![]() Quote:
Going beyond genus to species would take a microscope way better than mine, and even people who are experts on this as a career never seem to agree. This is what it looks like under my super crappy microscope (it's a video so you need to click on it): That magnification wasn't high enough to see the heterotrophic and chemoautotrophic bacteria that live in association with the cyano mat, but you can see the super cool stretched out diamond shaped diatoms and a couple of the watermelon seed shaped dinoflagellates that live in association with the film. It's called "Oscillatoria" because the filaments re-orient themselves by oscillating back and forth until they are positioned as best as possible to receive the light, which is why the strands look like they're vibrating. I think it might be part of why cyano mats seem to shrink at night, the entire colony can deflate at night, then puff up over the course of the day as individual filaments stretch out to try and get the most light. Last edited by asylumdown; 10-07-2014 at 02:52 AM. |
#10
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![]() FWIW, based on those pictures, O. margaritifera, O. okenii, and O. subsalsa are great matches for the kinds we typically do battle with.
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