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#11
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![]() Hm. I get what you're saying.... I would have to rearrange my UVs, whites and blues so they aren't all clumpy.
I'll make a sketch on paint. |
#12
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![]() and paint failed me.
Last edited by tlhood; 05-29-2014 at 09:30 PM. |
#13
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![]() I would run all the blues on one driver. And run the rest on the other. I have close to the same mix without the red and green. I keep my whites at 50% so having the driver dialed down won't be an issue.
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#14
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![]() Acutally now that I look closer it's pretty good don't mess with ut
__________________
Current tank---125 gallon mixed reef 60 gallon sump, Reef octopus nw200 skimmer, Rapid LEDs, Maxspec gyre, Mp10s, Fuge, Biweekly 20% WC, QT everything |
#15
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![]() Definitely agree. Best way to fine tune colour for your reef this way. Also lets you dim the blues to act as moonlights, if that's your thing.
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#16
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![]() Here is the layout I did.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1401400774.866362.jpg Ended up changing out the warm and neutral whites for cool white. Warms were just too yellow for my taste. You have the best control on the look of your tank if you keep the blues separate from the white. |
#17
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![]() Dave do you have your UV tied into your blue?
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#18
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![]() No I ended up running it with the whites.
They are almost out of the spectrum you can see. They look really dim when powered up. You can see if you use the little battery pack they supply and touch it to the contacts. They need to be run at 700mA max so I put them with my whites which don't need to be run at full blast ever in my opinion. They are bright! If you run the blues and white separate you can have the blues slowly ramp up in the morning then ramp on the whites a few hours later. And at night you can do the same for a nice sunset feature. |
#19
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#20
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![]() Looks great!
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