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#1
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![]() Thanks guys. Refuse to spend more money to get this POS working again. I'll be just as happy to go smash it in an alley for all the headaches it gave me =)
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#2
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![]() If you have a multimeter at home, it would be an idea to check the output of the power supply to confirm that it's providing 24 volts. Alternatively, you could connect a couple of car batteries in series to act as a 24 volt DC supply & hook that to your controller. This would at least confirm which component is unserviceable, the power supply or the controller.
Without any kind of schematic, it's near impossible to troubleshoot any further than that. I assume that the pump itself could be run on a straight DC signal, anywhere from 12 to 24 volts should get it kickstarted, but that's just a guess without any further data or schematics. The green/yellow wire to the pump is very likely a safety ground, but could also be a signal wire for control. Without confirming it's function, probably not a good idea to hook it directly to a DC supply. http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_5/chpt_2/2.html
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() Last edited by mike31154; 04-11-2014 at 04:26 PM. |
#3
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![]() I'm using mine with a 19V universal laptop power supply. So if you have a laptop power supply handy, or anything that puts out 15V to 24 V you can see if the pump runs. I believe the pumps won't run properly with less than 15V but I may be wrong on that as I haven't tried it.
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#5
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![]() As far as im aware you still need to use the controller supplied or a similar device. The replacement power supply will only supply voltage to the pump. The 3rd wire will tell the pump how fast to run.
A spare power supply will though tell you if the controller is really at fault or if its an issue of the power supply, which is fairly common. |
#6
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![]() Yup, it puts out 19V DC. You would plug it into the controller to see if the pump works and that would tell you if it's the power supply or the controller as roblarss suggests. Usually any power supply will have a label that tells you the output so if you can find one at home that puts out 15 to 24V DC you could try it to see if the pump runs.
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#7
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![]() Whatever power supply you do find, also make sure it has sufficient wattage rating to run the pump. It's not just about volts.... so for a 2640 model like yours, you need at least 85 watts, 100 would be better. My ancient Compaq notebook power supply produces 18.5 volt & 120 watts.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() Last edited by mike31154; 04-11-2014 at 07:30 PM. |
#8
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![]() Quote:
It's unlikely that a pump in this price range is going to have much sophistication housed within the pump itself, like control circuit feedback wiring. It simply reacts to varying voltage provided by the controller. Will run at a constant speed if presented with a constant voltage. I believe it's also a submersible pump, so a safety ground wire (green/yellow) is probably a very good idea. And yes, any spare power supply will help determine which component is not working as advertised, even if you don't hook it directly to the pump.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() Last edited by mike31154; 04-11-2014 at 07:44 PM. |
#9
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![]() pump side 3 pin connector with the dimple up is 24vdc right, gnd (-), left, 0-5v signal on bottom.
you should be able to test pump with low voltage between 0 and 5v on the bottom pin. 24v + is on right pin. common ground on the left pin for both. This pump is same as the wp pump and has same pin standard...at least mine do. |
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