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#1
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![]() That makes sense. I may have to try Lexan first. Thank you!
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#2
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![]() Have you considered reinforcing your current cover(s) with a piece of rigid material to straighten it out? A section of aluminum angle fastened along the length might do the trick. Yeas ago I tried to keep my display covered with acrylic as well, but too much of a hassle with the bending. I tried welding vertical sections to the warped pieces but that was finicky. Never tried the aluminum angle idea, but might work better in retrospect. Get a few stainless steel screws to fasten the angle to the acrylic. Piece of wood might work too.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#3
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![]() I use very thin (1/16") lexan for my covers. If you bend a small flange (very easy with thin material) on the end, it holds its shape and remains rigid.
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#4
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![]() A flange, great idea! And you have an instant handle too.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#5
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![]() How would you bend the flange? Do you have any pictures of this in action?
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#6
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![]() Quote:
I haven't bent any real large pieces, but here's a photo of a small item that I bent a hook on to for hanging on the tank rim. For this all I do is apply heat with the heat gun & once it softens, bend it over the rim & hold it in place with a gloved hand until it cools & hardens back up.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() Last edited by mike31154; 01-26-2014 at 06:44 PM. |
#7
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![]() Quote:
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...921#post859921 Various methods can be used, incl sandwiching lexan between two straight edge pieces of wood in a vise. Or can use a rubber hammer over wood. Easier to make the bend (more leverage) before cutting the end off the lexan piece. Trick is to use the thinnest lexan material you can find. It is light, has good light transmission, and holds its shape after a bend. It is very similar to forming thin sheets of aluminum and other metals. I learned this from building airplanes. As you know, airplanes have to be strong, but also very light. A straight skin only has strength in tension. But a skin with curves and flanges also has strength in compression. That design allows you to use the lightest materials for a given strength requirement.
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#8
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![]() Guess I should have been a little more clear on my question. I've bent acrylic and formed it before using heat. So that I'm okay with.. Just wondering what the flange has to do with it and how it looks in the end?
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