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  #1  
Old 01-07-2014, 06:32 PM
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sphelps sphelps is offline
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The tank is only 14 gallons so it would be really easy just to change 100% of the water. This is a common approach for small nano aquariums and can be used as a long term maintenance plan or a temporary solution for nitrates and other contaminants.

Some links you may find useful
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2010/4/aquarium
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/

Also I'll note your temperature is quite low for an SPS tank. In addition with lower temperatures you'll likely see more fluctuations due to external temperatures.

Last edited by sphelps; 01-07-2014 at 06:35 PM.
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:53 PM
RomaFan RomaFan is offline
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I check my ro/di water paramters before I mix the salt and after with neglagable parameters, so thats not where its coming from. Changing all the water? how would my corals do under those circumstances?
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:57 PM
craigwmiller craigwmiller is offline
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Most corals can handle significant amounts of time out of water. Walking/snorkling the beach in Hawaii personally confirms this -- many corals are exposed to the air/sun for HOURS each day.

I would just make sure you have the make-up water ready, and then just do it.

IMPORTANT though, is not to disturb your sandbed - since anything in there would get stirred up.



Regarding the deep sand bed releasing nutrients, this is likely the case also. There are many thoughts on the matter, but personally I prefer a shallow sandbed (1-1.5"), which I then have a sleeper goby to constantly stir it up to keep things clean and nutrient-free. If you are interested in removing/cleaning your sand -- I would recommend doing it SLOWLY so not to disturb it too much and release many nutrients too quick. Say remove a cup every few days/etc. If you do it gradually enough, you should not have an issue.
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Single System Setup: 210G SPS reef, 225G FOWLR, 72G water change, 50G frag, 120G sump. I promise a journal at some point! (anyone need some coral frags? I likely always have stuff that is frag-ready)
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:58 PM
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Did you keep the foam inserts in back of tank if there is any. If so organics fills up the foam and will make nitrates.
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:03 PM
RomaFan RomaFan is offline
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Everything is removed from the compartments in the back. I only have a heater and intake and return from the skimmer. The only thing that is really disturbing the sand bed is the pistol shrimp.
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:09 PM
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I would then consider removing most of the sand as Craig said.
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:11 PM
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I had 30~ppm nitrates for a long time. I was recommended Nitra-Guard Bio Cubes from J&L, and within a week my nitrates were down to between 5-10ppm (which I like to keep it there.)

http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s..._ID=plb-ng0500

Works pretty well! Just put them in a bag and throw them in the back!
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:13 PM
craigwmiller craigwmiller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neoh View Post
I had 30~ppm nitrates for a long time. I was recommended Nitra-Guard Bio Cubes from J&L, and within a week my nitrates were down to between 5-10ppm (which I like to keep it there.)

http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s..._ID=plb-ng0500

Works pretty well! Just put them in a bag and throw them in the back!

The only caution I would have to this method is that if you don't remove the source of nitrates they will come back. Be it source water, sand bed, filter floss, over feeding, etc.

In RomaFan's case, water is already being changed and it's not helping, so the source is very active and removing the source needs to happen first, then a massive water change afterwards!
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Single System Setup: 210G SPS reef, 225G FOWLR, 72G water change, 50G frag, 120G sump. I promise a journal at some point! (anyone need some coral frags? I likely always have stuff that is frag-ready)
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