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#1
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![]() Now that we have a quarantine tank, what salinity should we keep it at for new fish we buy? How long do you quarantine new fish?
Maybe this is a dumb question… |
#2
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![]() Personally I keep my quarantines parameters as close to my main tanks parameters as possible, makes for a more seamless transition when you transfer to display.
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#3
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![]() I run lower salinity in my quarenteen when its running then slowly raise it to match my tank when ready
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150 gallon reef mostly softies/lps. 50 gal sump with bubble magnus skimmer/ Led fuge light/refugium/ 1200 return and tunze powerheads. Dual pharoah main tank led.4 pump dosser. 550 gallon stingray tank water drip system 150 bowfront. 75 turtle tank, many others |
#4
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![]() I keep my quarantine close to the main tank and quarantine for at least one month, sometimes longer (up to 2 months).
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#5
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![]() Quote:
Match your QT salinity to what your fish arrives at from the LFS. Its usually between 1.018-1.022. Then slowly bring it up to the same parameters as your display when its time to put them in.
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Canada Corals http://www.canadacorals.com https://www.facebook.com/CanadaCorals https://twitter.com/CanadaCorals ![]() |
#6
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![]() It really depends on what you're doing in your QT tank. If you've decided that your'e going to QT everything under the hypo salinity protocol, then you keep your salinity exactly within that range. If you're not doing hypo, I can't really see a reason why you would hold the salinity at anything other than what you keep your display tank at. Keeping it at slightly lower salinity but not low enough to call it hypo could potentially mask certain problems and erroneously lead you to believe your fish are free of parasites when they are not. I know of at least one LFS here that does that, every time I bring fish home from them I test the SG in the bag water at 1.018. It's not low enough to outright kill something like ich, but it is low enough to suppress it to the point where you might not notice it.
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#7
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![]() Quote:
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