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#811
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![]() Honestly, both values are fine. Bumping from 7.7 to 8.3 isn't going to make a difference.
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Brad |
#812
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![]() Quote:
![]() I am going to bump up my Alk using the Salifert test and see what happens I'm sure my SPS will be happier as I now feel the Elos kits are giving me false readings Only time will tell |
#813
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![]() I would trust salifert's reading. Despite having junk hardward (the syringe reading with fade away with use), I love how consistent they are with all the test. I never got any surprises till now from salifert (other than the quality of the 1ml syringe).
Alongside, I don't think 400ppm and 7.7dkh is problematic. That's the exact parameters of my tank. But I am starting zeovit so that's justified. I think its more about the balance of ca-co3 than the magnitude itself; as long as they are within the acceptable range. Balanced Calcium and Alkalinity: (as per Randy Holmes-Farley) 360 ppm to 0 dKH 370 ppm to 1.4 dKH 380 ppm to 2.8 dKH 390 ppm to 4.2 dKH 400 ppm to 5.6 dKH 410 ppm to 7 dKH (natural seawater) 420 ppm to 8.4 dKH 430 ppm to 9.8 dKH 440 ppm to 11.2 dKH 450 ppm to 12.6 dKH 460 ppm to 14 dKH When I used to run non-ULNS, I concentrated on keeping my parameters in the correct ratio (11.2dkh and 440ppm was my preference). HTH ![]()
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You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob ![]() |
#814
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![]() Don't fiddle Greg. Your parameters are fine and your corals look great.
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#815
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![]() Good advice. Leave it alone, the alk isn't going to make a difference. If I test alk, which is rare, I want somewhere around 7 or 8, which translates to anything from 6.5 to 9 is acceptable.
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Brad |
#816
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![]() Thanks for the advice guys
I'll just carry on as I have been then |
#817
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![]() Good thinking
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#818
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![]() After an internal tug-of-war about when to add the new fish from QT, I transferred them from the QT to the DT last Sunday
They were all eating everything I wanted them to, and nobody had any signs of issues, so into the DT they went For the record, I only QT'd them for 2 weeks, instead of my previous 6 week regimen I don't recommend 2 weeks for anyone, and encourage all of you to QT your new critters for at least 6 weeks to monitor for anything that may 'pop up' All the fishies we added looked really good, except for the filamented flasher It was being picked on by the lubbock's and we were pretty sure it wouldn't make the night We were right and I found the flasher in the morning with a hermit picking on it RIP Levi ![]() Beyond that, all has been good I've had no NH3 readings, nor any NO2 or NO3 for that matter I'm very surprised as I've doubled my fish load The only thing I've noticed is some thicker nog and I've tweaked the adjuster on my skimmer to try and get some more goo After a week, my skimmer is producing more crap relative to the amount of new fish and not overflowing, so all is good I've brought my PO4 down from 0.24 before the new fishies, to 0.02 after the new additions, so all is under control there All I did was go back to using the recommended amount of GFO and within 2 weeks it was back to normal After 1 week of the new fish my PO4 is still only 0.02 - ish so all is good All the new fish are getting along and have found their night-time locations Guess I'll have to add some pics soon ![]() |
#819
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![]() Quote:
But I say this, because as you may or may not know QTing new fish is my personal soapbox. A year and half ago, I decided to play Russian Roulette just this one time, and I lost. What happened is that I bought a couple fish from "our favorite LFS". I put them in my QT, but because I also bought a couple shrimp, was not able to do my usual hypo routine (2+ months for me). So I observed them for a couple weeks, and got them feeding. Everything looked good, so I added them to my display tank. Well, just my luck (not), a couple weeks later, I see a few of my fish scratching. And sure enough, I got another Ich attack. It took about 3 months, losing several fish, before that finally subsided. Ironically, none of my new fish (orange spot sleeper gobies) got the Ich or showed any symptoms. But they obviously were carriers.
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#820
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![]() Walter, I was thinking about a few things when I decided to cut the QT time short
I've lost fish in QT before and wanted to avoid it for their benefits Why risk healthy fish due to paranoia ? Top of my list was a bunch of wrasses that may not do well in a small tank with no LR etc. I use a tray of sand, but only 2 of the 7 fish were using it, so the rest were 'hiding' behind stuff at night. I felt they could be happier Next thought was they look good, are eating very well and if they had MI, now it's in the QT so I'll get them out before it hatches and jumps back on them. And if they had MI at the time, they would have shown signs, which they weren't. No flashing, rapid breathing etc. And by 2 weeks, if there were any other nasty diseases it (hopefully) would have shown by then. As I stated, they were all perfectly healthy with no marks, worms etc Third thought was I couldn't feed them as much as I wanted to without doing more than one WC per week as the AC50 couldn't keep up and I wasn't about to lose another wrasse due to high NO3. I wanted to ensure they stayed fat without risking their health And as I also stated, they were eating everything I threw at them, so they had to be in good shape ![]() There was no point in hypo, and waiting 6 weeks was going to be a risk of their lives That's about it |
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