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#2
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#3
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![]() Hey Greg,
Can you comment more on your green cyano? Do you have any more photos? Was it ever kind of neon-y in colour? Nice new additions! Your tank is looking really good regardless of the cyano. |
#4
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No more pics at this time It was a light neon green on the sand, as well as some light red. It was never thick in the DT but held tons of bubbles The stuff I scraped out of the 'fuge was the thick slimy red stuff I upped my GFO back to the normal amount and siphoned the cyano from the sandbed, as well as removed it all from the 'fuge That was a week ago Friday The 'fuge is still clear and the sand is only barely 'infected' I do believe it started because I was trying to saturate the tank with food for the corals, and I let my PO4 get too high |
#5
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![]() Good to know its 'beatable'. I've been dealing with it since the flood, I can barely stay ahead of it. I am still kicking myself that 3 missed water changes could have such a long standing impact.
Thanks for the reply. |
#6
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I was thinking it's more an algae than a bacteria as it's so light colored |
#7
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![]() Guys in QT are doing very well and getting along 'swimmingly'
Ya, I said it They all have names but 1, so they better make it into the DT ![]() No signs of diseases etc and all eat very well Nori, NLS pellets, mysis and some fortified brine shrimp I need to use up Thanks to Brad for posting sometime last year about putting foams in the sump to seed a QT filter I did this last time around in May, but killed the bacteria with meds ![]() I think the foams sat for a few months this time, and I've already put more in, just in case I've been using Stability and an Ammo Alert, as I've always done, and never saw any NH3, even with my Elos kit We've been checking the badge at roughly 7am, 12pm (lunch feeding), 2-3pm (after lunch), 6pm, and 10pm (2 hours after dinner feeding) I've checked with the Elos kit every night at roughly 6pm and nothing ... Tonight I tested 0.5 NO2 and a trace of NO3 Looking good, considering there's 7 fish (11" or so) in a 20g I can't wait to get these guys into the DT, although I'll have to transfer them in a couple batches a week or so apart (when the time comes) and Stability for the DT for a week each batch |
#8
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![]() Looking forward to pics of them wrasse! I had picked up a melanarus too a few weeks ago when I was over at JL...
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ATI 48" 3x75W LED with 8x54W T5, 2xTunze 6105, 2 x Maxspect Gyre XF150, Bubble King Mini 200 ( soon to be replaced by a Bubble King SM 200), Eheim 1262, Via Aqua 300 watt Titanium heater, JBJ ATO, Apex Controller |
#9
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![]() Thanks guys. I'm very happy with our new fish
Bill, the QT is on page 15 and is totally separate, but is now connected to my RKE instead of a separate RKL. It has it's own ATO as well If we're thinking the same hose that goes up, that's for the 'fuge. That pump is now in the skimmer chamber so it's unfiltered If you're looking at the black hose that goes left, that's for the UV/Chiller circuit I've thought about removing my socks but still have to ponder the arguements before I make a choice |
#10
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![]() I think that there are different levels of quarantining. Some QT systems are completely separate and disconnected from the main system. This method would be for treatments, etc. However, I have in fact seen QT systems that were attached to the main display. The point of a QT system that is attached to the main display would be to simply house a new fish and adapt them to tank conditions slowly. This allows them time to recover from shipping/moving without the added stress of being picked on by the established tank inhabitants. In this way you're kinda giving them their own room and time to adjust. This would also be a good time to adapt them to any foods that they might not otherwise be accustomed to. Certainly though, as you said, this method of QT'ing does not eliminate your risk of introducing disease into your tank, nevertheless it does serve a purpose.
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