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Old 10-08-2013, 03:30 AM
hfp75 hfp75 is offline
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So, Today I started working on my Coil. I am using a 3' x 4" PVC pipe. Generally, what I have read online is that its 2' but I have added an extra foot or 50% of capacity which should mean that I eventually could run it abit faster and still be ok.

My coil is 3/8 OD 1/4 ID semi-rigid tube that was a PITA to get coiled into the 4" pipe. Once again most directions talk about 50' and I'm using 75' another 50%. Here is a pic.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps24dcc06a.jpg

I cut a hole and glued in a double female threaded adapter that I need to make sure doesnt move as it is gonna be more of a bulkhead. This is the 'Tank Water IN'. Pic...

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps16abf657.jpg

To add some strength to it I added the end flange over top the normal pipe at the adapter. It is a snug fit and well PVC glued in place.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps82a5800f.jpg

To ensure some more strength I have JB Welded the outside with a good sized application. This is kinda visible in this pic.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...pse203dd32.jpg

Here is a shot of the bottem. It is a threaded end cap. Just in case I need to get into this thing. Inside at the top I added a 90 degree elbow to the end of the 3/8 / 1/4 tube, just to make sure the tank water comming in heads to the middle. This elbow narrows the ID just a bit more and I am not sure about this. This is the narrowest Diameter of all the tubes (the bottleneck). If I need to remove it I can since its on the threaded end. The flow shouldnt be much either so, in theory it should work.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps8a856665.jpg

Its drying over night.

Last edited by hfp75; 10-08-2013 at 03:39 AM.
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Old 10-08-2013, 03:55 PM
IanWR IanWR is offline
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Very interesting! I had never heard of a de-nitrifying coil so had to look it up. I'll keep up on your progress.

I have a question about your sump. I see a bag of ceramic rings, is that the drain that goes into it? I'm still very new at saltwater, but "they" seem to say to avoid biomedia as they came become "nitrate factories". Could this be contributing to your problem?

- Ian
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Old 10-08-2013, 04:33 PM
Kryptic4L Kryptic4L is offline
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is that a uv sterilizer ? is it possible that its killing some good stuff ?
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Two clownfish were in a tank. One says to the other, how do i drive this thing?
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:27 PM
hfp75 hfp75 is offline
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Ill be doing a water change today and a cleaning. I'll remove the media from the sump and give it a vacuum.

The UV is a 9watt and has been turned off for the last few months - the light burn out. No changes to the NO3. Last week I replaced the light and got it turned back no and again no changes so I'll rule out the UV...
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Old 10-08-2013, 11:14 PM
Kryptic4L Kryptic4L is offline
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also you might want to do some googling about ceramic rings, as it appears you have a large amount of them in your sump. Alledegely they can become nitrate factorys if not maintained.
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Old 10-10-2013, 12:48 AM
hfp75 hfp75 is offline
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Good Point, the ceramic rings and SeaChem Matrix is gone - and sump cleaned. Before I run the coil I'll test nitrates.... Dont worry.

Well, back to the denitrate coil. Yesterday I finished all the plumbing for the "IN" side of it. Not much working room and things in there are tight. Here is a before pic.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...pscbc849a8.jpg

I had to use a 90degree connecter to get the bits together, but there shouldnt be 'much' water moving through this thing so... it should be good. I might hate myself for using the internal barbed connecter (even narrower and more flow restriction) much like the other 90 connecter at the bottom. Maybe I should have used the double female quick connect push connector. We will see with time.

Here is an after shot & you can see some silicone - GE1 (windows/doors) just enough to keep the tubes inside from moving or shifting.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps8b63cf5a.jpg

I finished work on the top cap BUT dropped it and now I am re-JB Welding it. I think it would have been fine without more JB but I'll add just a bit more - never hurts. Pics on the next post.

All thats left is to glue on the top cap, add in BIO BALLS (I'm still searching for some - Hint Hint Hint) & screw on the bottem cover.

It will need 2 hoses hooked up and a week or 2 to cycle. Then we will see.
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Old 10-10-2013, 07:38 AM
hfp75 hfp75 is offline
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OK well here is the promised picture of the topcap. You can clearly see the 2 grey colors. That is the second batch of the JB Weld that will hold that bulkhead in place. I needed to reinforce the top cap just a bit with an extra layer of pvc.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps81969446.jpg

Hopefully next pic and update has the Cap glued on and bioballs in.
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