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Old 08-22-2013, 10:17 PM
reefwars reefwars is offline
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some other options is the tank transfer method and hyposalinity , both are proven to work.

i find hypo the easiest and less work but does not treat MI

for the record...cleaner shrimp, fish etc. do not cure fish of ich lol they clean dying flesh, small parasites etc. while it may much the odd ich parasite it will not cure a fish thats already showing signs or keep ich out of a tank.


i just ran all my fish through a 2 mth hypo treat ment , kept the tanks at 1.009 for 2 mths and ran it with a few pieces of liverock. did a water change twice:P
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Old 08-23-2013, 03:16 PM
geweagle geweagle is offline
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Reefwars,

Thank you. I started to drop the salinity last night. I will do so slowly, But I would not have thought to go that low. i will see how it goes.
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Old 08-23-2013, 03:22 PM
reefwars reefwars is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geweagle View Post
Reefwars,

Thank you. I started to drop the salinity last night. I will do so slowly, But I would not have thought to go that low. i will see how it goes.
remember , no sand its a big one to follow , i wouldnt drop your display to hypo but set up a small 10-20g tank much easier and safer overall.

its basic so a powerhead, heater and some liverock. lights arnt necessary unless the tank is in pitch black and add some large abs or pvc for places to hide.

feed little and soak in garlic.

you can go as high as 1.011 i believe to still be effective but i cant recall for sure atm.

remember all fish need to be qt'd , and while doing hypo the display needs to be fishless for 8-10 weeks , shrimps and corals are fine but no fish what so ever or its a lost cause.

use a refractometer when doing hypo and a hydrometer is not accurate even the better ones are horrible

gl!!
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Old 08-23-2013, 03:25 PM
reefwars reefwars is offline
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while i was doing hypo i would switch out a piece of rock here and there just to keep things stable, although the bacteria can survive hypo 100% all the food the rock houses like pods , coraline etc. will perish so if you have say a scooter or wrasses like i do then it helps to add a fresh food source back to them.

also not all fish can be hypo'd some do not do well like leopards,mandarins, sand sifters etc.

good luck friend
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Old 08-24-2013, 05:22 PM
geweagle geweagle is offline
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Thanks Reefwars,

I have been reading and it confrimes everything you said. I am fortunately I have a small tanks. It does have sand which I was wondering about. I thought maybe it should go. Which is what you have confirmed. I will go to a refractometer. The display tank will be cleared of all fish and will have some leathers, a couple peppermint shimp and a few crabs. I will not do the hypo on that tank. just leave fowl. I will keep skimmer etc running. And leave live rock there. But maybe as you suggested cycle some into the hypo tank. But some have leathers and palyp attached so I cannot move those as I understand they will not survive. Looking like one clown may have some cryst now. Still healthy and eatting but just confirms that the ICH life cycles is alive and well.

Got to go through this because otherwise likely never be able to keep any fish.
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:45 PM
albert_dao albert_dao is offline
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If you want good advice, here's a good tip to help you filter through the noise:

Look for the nice tanks that have been around for a while.

That's it.
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:20 PM
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I do believe the biggest problem for most in this hobby is being impatient. Key here is to take your time, go slow, do not make harsh/rash decisions.

Good example, is that Denny suggested hypo, and you are already lowering your display tank, whereas you shouldn't.

take a step back, take a breath and relax, slow down, and enjoy this hobby. We have all had our obstacles, I myself am one of them.

Do your research, but before you jump to do it, research again, make notes, analyze and then determine your approach.

Not sure what your time frame was during this, as Kien asked, what is it? I myself didn't add any fish to my tank until after 3-4 months (maybe longer). Cleaning crew was introduced between 1-2 months.

Welcome to the hobby, it is a great one!!!!
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Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite)
Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker
Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO)
Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish
Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk
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