New Jarduino build gets started

[Chatouille]

Not much progress, plan to solder up my protoboard tonight or tomorrow. Here is what I made for the enclosure, there's a groove an inch below the heatsink that I can slide in a splash guard. I also made the top with a 120mm PWM controlled fan.




(Almost hate to paint it)

Come on Dom..... let's see some pic's!

[daplatapus]

Sweet looking enclosure!!! That's going to look awesome!
Lol, I've been so sick with this crappy flu and busy at work I haven't done a thing. Sounds like my stacking headers hit Vancouver though and will be shipped to me shortly (thanks to ScubaSteve), so I should be able to get going on that again and get some of my sensors and fans wired up to some proto boards.

[byee]

Can anyone tell me where I can find the schematics and gerber file for the pcb?

Thanks in advance.

:-)

[daplatapus]

Check out RC. In the DIY forum, look for the thread: Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino. There's a couple files there, but I know one is on post #936.

Hope that helps

[reefme]

Planning to use mosfet, but Meanwell LDD driver is better. Can some one show me how to wire this? Does it requires any resistors?

[daplatapus]

I haven't looked into mofset at all, so sorry, can't help ya. Maybe ScubaSteve or Chatouille can help. Any reason why you don't want to go LDD?

[reefme]

Originally Posted by daplatapus

I haven't looked into mofset at all, so sorry, can't help ya. Maybe ScubaSteve or Chatouille can help. Any reason why you don't want to go LDD?

I do, but want to know how to wire them before before I order LDD drivers.

[ScubaSteve]

Originally Posted by reefme

Planning to use mosfet, but Meanwell LDD driver is better. Can some one show me how to wire this? Does it requires any resistors?

The mosfet approach is a lot more difficult to implement, even if you know what you are doing. The LDDs work basically in the same way but have a much more efficient switching scheme and run a lot cooler (not to mention added thermal and overcurrent protection). The schematic Dom showed you is correct and, yes, the LEDs are backwards. I was in a rush when I drew that up. The resistor connecting the PWM pin is optional but is there to cause the fixture to fail off in case the driver becomes disconnected from the controller. Without this it fails to 100% on. Not the end of the the world, but the pull-down resistor is more rigorous in terms of design.

Vin-, the ground/negative of the controller and the ground of the power supply are all connected together. If not, you get funny behaviors like the LEDs operating at 50% max output and fried drivers. Don't ask how is figured this out.

[reefme]

Thanks,

Will give these drivers a try. Do you know where is the cheapest.
Looking at 10 of the 1A and 10 of the .7A.